tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-58312462845493064482024-03-10T22:08:46.503+00:00Pug Addicts - #1 Peugeot Blog & Article ResourceRegularly updated blog focused on Peugeot's and car culture. Includes how-to guides, technical information, remapping articles, videos and more.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger76125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-43632040156232514922021-04-20T21:47:00.004+01:002021-04-20T21:56:15.162+01:00[Solved] Skoda 1.9 TDi P0321 16705 G28 Sensor Implausible Signal Fault Code<p>I recently experienced and fixed the P0321 / 16705 fault code on my Skoda Fabia VRS 1.9 TDI with the PD130 BLT engine. This engine is the extremely common VAG PD 1.9 turbo charged diesel engine as used in many models of VW/Audi/Skoda.</p><p>During diagnosis of this problem I did a lot of research concerning the P0321 fault code which is for the G28 engine speed sensor implausible signal which I thought I would share, as well as what the final solution to the problem was.</p><p>The ross-tech wiki lists the following information regarding this code:</p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">P0321 / 16705 fault code information</span></h2><p><b>Possible Symptoms</b></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Engine shuts off</li><li>Engine doesn't start</li><li>Speedometer inoperative</li><li>Glow Plug Indicator Lamp (K29) flashes</li></ul><p></p><p><b>Possible Causes</b></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Engine Speed Sensor (G28) loose</li><li>Engine Speed Sensor (G28) faulty</li></ul><p></p><p><b>Possible Solutions</b></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Check Engine Speed Sensor (G28)</li></ul><p></p><p><b>Special Notes</b></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>The Engine Speed Sensor (G28) is also used as a reference sensor for the crankshaft position and correlates with the Camshaft Position Sensor Bank 1 (G40) and Camshaft Position Sensor Bank 2 (G163).</li><li>When an engine will not start due to mechanical (spark/fuel/compression/timing) related issues it is not uncommon to set a false G28 fault codes due to extended cranking with a no-start condition.</li></ul><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">My symptoms:</h3><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>The car would not rev above approximately 3400rpm</li><li>If you tried to rev over 3400rpm the limiter would cut in and it would trigger the 16705 fault code.</li><li>This fault code would illuminate the check engine management light and also flashing glow plug light.</li><li>Once the fault code was triggered you would not rev over approx 3400rpm.</li><li>If you did not rev over 3400rpm you could drive the car as normal.</li><li>Car would start without hesitation hot or cold.</li></ul></div><div>On these engines the ECU uses the values from the G28 crankshaft position sensor and G40 camshaft position sensor to determine crank angle relative to camshaft angle. In VCDS this is known as torsion value or syncro angle.</div><div><br /></div><div>Because the ECU looks at the relationship between these two values, if one value is implausible then it will struggle to tell which sensor is at fault. In my case it is suggesting that the value from the G28 sensor does not match the value from the G40 sensor.</div><div><br /></div><div>The fault code first appeared after I had the timing belt changed and I also changed the thermostat. </div><div><br /></div><div>As this issue is related to timing my first thoughts were that it was something to do with the timing belt change. Perhaps the timing was not correct or the belt tension was wrong or the camshaft sensor had been knocked during the work.</div><div><br /></div><div>Looking into this further I removed the top timing belt cover and checked the timing belt tension as well as the little tabs which are on the engine side of the camshaft pulley - these are used by the G40 sensor and if one of them was bent this might prevent the sensor from reading the position correctly. No problems found.</div><div><br /></div><div>I also read the syncro angle using VCDS and it was fluctuating between -1.1KW and -1.7KW which is within range - this rules out the timing being incorrect.</div><div><br /></div><div>I also had to change the thermostat around the same time. The thermostat on this engine is on the front of the engine to the left hand side which is close to where the wire for the G28 crankshaft sensor runs from the plug at the top to the sensor position at the bottom under the oil cooler.</div><div><br /></div><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Solution</span></h2><div><br /></div><div>In the end the G28 crankshaft sensor was faulty and I think it was caused by coolant running down the cable sheath and going directly into the sensor itself...or it could just be a coincidence.</div><div><br /></div><div>Once the G28 sensor was replaced with a genuine VW item the issue was cured completely.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr8x3f1oeXhhSZJfFkpr4IEwbEBYcc9VYe99KA2YFmeRj4pAIPHSmVqMIGqRFnbq7hFhdQLnD_Bni0bux5KdfqFLhPZsJpCYJ0yYHsK1HmYOt5wfMoFZMipo5-W-u_tCwm319r6mrPDJb1/s2048/IMG_20210320_094610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="1.9 tdi blt G28 crankshaft sensor behind oil cooler" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1522" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr8x3f1oeXhhSZJfFkpr4IEwbEBYcc9VYe99KA2YFmeRj4pAIPHSmVqMIGqRFnbq7hFhdQLnD_Bni0bux5KdfqFLhPZsJpCYJ0yYHsK1HmYOt5wfMoFZMipo5-W-u_tCwm319r6mrPDJb1/w477-h640/IMG_20210320_094610.jpg" title="1.9 tdi blt G28 crankshaft sensor behind oil cooler" width="477" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">G28 crankshaft sensor location behind oil cooler</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcVkokj6w6FV6sJno5ubVLpjq7_rtI61sIKrbTK5XPuRetErJd291hXtAYXlXfg6aMZw0nlXzUxuuDAeCx1Vf5h7uATRkoZlR2xe9eDQHZPlqLjQM9jgI1jvEwdOaI3wHk6YDUjneCyVu8/s2000/IMG_20210320_104322.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1502" data-original-width="2000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcVkokj6w6FV6sJno5ubVLpjq7_rtI61sIKrbTK5XPuRetErJd291hXtAYXlXfg6aMZw0nlXzUxuuDAeCx1Vf5h7uATRkoZlR2xe9eDQHZPlqLjQM9jgI1jvEwdOaI3wHk6YDUjneCyVu8/w640-h480/IMG_20210320_104322.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="G28 sensor highlighted in red" width="640" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">G28 sensor highlighted in red</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><p></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-3671047609024414452019-11-23T14:13:00.000+00:002019-11-23T14:13:42.304+00:00Mazda MX5 NA Replacing Broken Corroded PPF GroundIf you are experiencing any sort of electrical or starting issues it is always worth checking all your grounds or earth straps as they are also known.<br />
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On the Mazda MX5 there is an important earth on the PPF which provides a really strong connection to the engine block. Due to this earth location being low to the ground it is fairly common to find this connection badly corroded or even snapped completely (see below).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii_nMldVWlgMCv2W2TPb-Z8yTUlu-2EV2sgVjuw45Vx7jE1gDhuovH61XDNjOcpW_uptVIJFVXNPx1LxjK0hj4mBwNyJXxdJBtVW7o4ynqM2dYctq0YXXM6J9TF3bIQm2BXqUm4c3PgwLt/s1600/IMG_20190922_180334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii_nMldVWlgMCv2W2TPb-Z8yTUlu-2EV2sgVjuw45Vx7jE1gDhuovH61XDNjOcpW_uptVIJFVXNPx1LxjK0hj4mBwNyJXxdJBtVW7o4ynqM2dYctq0YXXM6J9TF3bIQm2BXqUm4c3PgwLt/s400/IMG_20190922_180334.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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If you want to replace this PPF ground strap entirely then this is the spec:</div>
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<ul>
<li>Length: 1500mm</li>
<li>Size: 16mm² </li>
<li>6mm ring lug terminals on both ends</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiEm5wfQBAU7lq_Ekh1qezQJpI1EmGYySAh-gMbdVbLpgW3UlgKh2dYY8CRpbhiWO08l7QaLKceI6LF9n4JRpBiJpy8AsZIbJH-sSj8bg0kJePcw6IeZE4H72B12MdSnWUWUkLbn4rTvl7/s1600/IMG_20191026_170512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiEm5wfQBAU7lq_Ekh1qezQJpI1EmGYySAh-gMbdVbLpgW3UlgKh2dYY8CRpbhiWO08l7QaLKceI6LF9n4JRpBiJpy8AsZIbJH-sSj8bg0kJePcw6IeZE4H72B12MdSnWUWUkLbn4rTvl7/s400/IMG_20191026_170512.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4X9HDPuiWyAgt0hCz-KfOv2Otf41HEwPO53z3oiNQYG-CDCoYufG3AkValgry91gAmbaOl3KBhC5YX24CiLfGOMYQXuS6bwn6DInwFodV_KZbpuJ-MpcajxDWOOiqkIVuaFu1US-uLgcH/s1600/IMG_20191026_170547.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4X9HDPuiWyAgt0hCz-KfOv2Otf41HEwPO53z3oiNQYG-CDCoYufG3AkValgry91gAmbaOl3KBhC5YX24CiLfGOMYQXuS6bwn6DInwFodV_KZbpuJ-MpcajxDWOOiqkIVuaFu1US-uLgcH/s400/IMG_20191026_170547.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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When replacing the cable it is a good idea to give the area on the PPF a good clean to remove any corrosion and ensure a solid collection. I used a wire drill bit attachment to do this.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW5vhq7zAAjW3xzXck0NJRqjRrjEppkCoQdsQcppHAZB1m0AzY-5vIdY7j4YHgUd9mukd1xKq5txRarnBlmvveYfOsuQt5VBqpQJcWHgCBgeKdDsnyICbdbVaLBExCEq9H8-KthYJ4Y1PT/s1600/IMG_20191103_103850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW5vhq7zAAjW3xzXck0NJRqjRrjEppkCoQdsQcppHAZB1m0AzY-5vIdY7j4YHgUd9mukd1xKq5txRarnBlmvveYfOsuQt5VBqpQJcWHgCBgeKdDsnyICbdbVaLBExCEq9H8-KthYJ4Y1PT/s400/IMG_20191103_103850.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Then it's just a case of feeding the cable through the grommet and into the boot. At the battery end I simply bolted the new cable on top of the original connection. Secure with cable ties to stop chaffing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8G7NCCsPI8LXST7nOFhP8BxV9NOyvdM2ltKhEdtsSZji7rphtt8IRGBY10edgdizpsSIGIpNfyZsNASyEbz9iGuiB66dEUHd4L2Xn74q-_rERqQpzfJqqos4IuIwqMY7ObR4vq6bBK3nE/s1600/IMG_20191103_113345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8G7NCCsPI8LXST7nOFhP8BxV9NOyvdM2ltKhEdtsSZji7rphtt8IRGBY10edgdizpsSIGIpNfyZsNASyEbz9iGuiB66dEUHd4L2Xn74q-_rERqQpzfJqqos4IuIwqMY7ObR4vq6bBK3nE/s400/IMG_20191103_113345.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-47323138513137727642018-04-02T21:28:00.001+01:002018-04-02T21:28:35.676+01:00[SOLVED] How much do Mazda MX5 baby teeth/tie down hooks weigh?<div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3PxxlX8HB607NAntAO6YFk8E4EcrmoH0lJ8h5-SkbE-mq33XpbEL03vb3_P_7eNdCWmKjx7gBeoi9cXC6R52_QBE3V1ZVwqhF_OM5AywNDrmPU8sk3-Uehqt12-ffcOsloHYs-20NkPf1/s1600/IMG_20180320_181020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="mazda mx5 tie down hooks baby teeth" border="0" data-original-height="898" data-original-width="1400" height="409" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3PxxlX8HB607NAntAO6YFk8E4EcrmoH0lJ8h5-SkbE-mq33XpbEL03vb3_P_7eNdCWmKjx7gBeoi9cXC6R52_QBE3V1ZVwqhF_OM5AywNDrmPU8sk3-Uehqt12-ffcOsloHYs-20NkPf1/s640/IMG_20180320_181020.jpg" title="mazda mx5 tie down hooks baby teeth" width="640" /></a></div>
You may have noticed the two ugly looking (probably rusty by now) "tow hooks" pointing out the front bumper of your MX5 NA.</div>
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These are not actually tow hooks but tie down hooks used for securing the cars when they were being shipped from Japan to different countries.</div>
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They have affectionately been nicknamed the baby teeth by Miata enthusiasts partly due to them kind of looking like teeth sticking out the front bumper, and partly because many see it as a right of passage for owners to "pull them out" when they first get their MX5.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwsywWgCJoQbmQ855R05TNVZkoH108zKw5MqTxp6afLPb77Rnh9xpsNdZ8r5IQ-Prunr0KUMFwX0LIoqPpyppc_M7kC5MPNCMSro80cOYLgf4EaCEEwq5EtFQgxYlpxCvSv723r1uf4fah/s1600/IMG_20180320_180931.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="weight of mazda mx5 baby teeth" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwsywWgCJoQbmQ855R05TNVZkoH108zKw5MqTxp6afLPb77Rnh9xpsNdZ8r5IQ-Prunr0KUMFwX0LIoqPpyppc_M7kC5MPNCMSro80cOYLgf4EaCEEwq5EtFQgxYlpxCvSv723r1uf4fah/s640/IMG_20180320_180931.jpg" title="weight of mazda mx5 baby teeth" width="480" /></a></div>
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The weights of the tie down hooks are often exaggerated so here are the definitive weights for both front and rear tie downs as I have just removed them from my car.</div>
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<ul>
<li>Front tie down hooks: 1.3kg</li>
<li>Rear tie down hooks: 1.5kg</li>
<li>Both front and rear combined: 2.8kg</li>
</ul>
The weight might vary within a few grams depending on how rusty they are. :-D</div>
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<b>Should you remove the baby teeth?</b></div>
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Will you notice that kg, no, but as far as weight saving goes on cars, it's a very easy win at no cost to comfort or practicality. Probably the easiest 2.8kg you will ever save...<br />
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Some people use the baby teeth to tow the car, so bear this in mind if you do decide to remove them. However this is not what they are designed for and Mazda do not recommend using them for this purpose.<br />
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In my opinion the front bumper looks much better without the tie down hooks sticking out, especially if they have gone rusty.<br />
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<b>How to remove MX5 Miata baby teeth?</b><br />
The front baby teeth are held in place by three bolts on each tie down hook, these can be reached by turning the wheels to full lock and then reaching in from the wheel arch. As you would expect, they are likely to be rusted so it's advisable to soak with a penetrating oil before as it can be awkward to get a good angle for putting a lot of force through the spanner.<br />
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The rear are held by two bolts (I think) and can also easily be removed without needing to jack the car up.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-85006916235920929522018-02-27T21:42:00.000+00:002018-02-27T21:42:26.316+00:00[Guide] Fitting Running/Side Marker Lights To Mazda MX5 NA<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkoVboYD_Zfvd8jKMqyH1SCThQikJ-MkridJLG13Dj-CZ4x8_hVae26vRSbxDru7eorF9N2uK530zdUkST2DU1t8WWUDhoOrW_FDaAm_dSEskjrSIR6C7egvlHM31YL8-sU0NGWLVENmJC/s1600/IMG_20180226_190422_110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Mazda mx5 side marker lights" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkoVboYD_Zfvd8jKMqyH1SCThQikJ-MkridJLG13Dj-CZ4x8_hVae26vRSbxDru7eorF9N2uK530zdUkST2DU1t8WWUDhoOrW_FDaAm_dSEskjrSIR6C7egvlHM31YL8-sU0NGWLVENmJC/s640/IMG_20180226_190422_110.jpg" title="Mazda mx5 side marker lights" width="640" /></a></div>
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Fitting running/side marker lights to your Mazda MX5/Eunos Roadster is a subtle mod to make your car stand out a bit and increase visibility to other road users, it's also ridiculously easy to do yourself even if you have never worked on car electrics before.<br />
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US spec cars have orange running lights in the front and red running lights in the rear, however UK and JDM spec MX5's have reflectors instead.<br />
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Fortunately for us it's very easy to fit bulbs in these reflectors and wire up the side marker lights to be come on with the side lights.<br />
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<b>Tools needed:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Cross head screwdriver</li>
<li>Wire strippers/cutters</li>
<li>Crimping tool</li>
<li>Drill</li>
<li>Large flat head screwdriver</li>
<li>Pliers</li>
</ul>
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<b>Parts needed:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>2 x 501 (W5W) bulb holders</li>
<li>2 x Amber 501 bulbs</li>
<li>4 x Cable Lock (Scotch Lock) Connectors</li>
<li>4 x Butt connectors</li>
<li>2 x cable ties</li>
<li>Electrical tape</li>
<li>8amp wire</li>
</ul>
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<b>Step by step guide</b><br />
Remove side reflectors and make hole in the rear to fit bulb holders. To remove them just undo the two phillips screws on either side and then gently pry out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdiq85441UiCl-cQSGs02loNor-fbO2pISGyO9pYDa_5nqtPyA-t8d32WZs5UjTHIkhDKWPiexPFgarSybXDjoM1-idclqzhanJzxnRRI6cPL23AM2Bqbo6HFKrzk3KhNagChcU3EKYTIC/s1600/IMG_20180224_124752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="mazda mx5 side marker reflectors" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdiq85441UiCl-cQSGs02loNor-fbO2pISGyO9pYDa_5nqtPyA-t8d32WZs5UjTHIkhDKWPiexPFgarSybXDjoM1-idclqzhanJzxnRRI6cPL23AM2Bqbo6HFKrzk3KhNagChcU3EKYTIC/s640/IMG_20180224_124752.jpg" title="mazda mx5 side marker reflectors" width="480" /></a></div>
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The only difference between the UK and US side reflectors is that a hole was not made in the rear. So all we have to do is make that hole.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4TVhUYiQo3gRamnYNuIX0wCCZqRURm1rvbWKYNjMehFcN0aoWxLtF2yWtm2WeDi0kipQsTL1aHwyuhYwY4zHyad1T-gFnaDKAMWD4_JgU-JxN_xT7BxSselpYVr5WOkYKETYULh0n3dx8/s1600/IMG_20180224_124714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="501 w5w bulb holder" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4TVhUYiQo3gRamnYNuIX0wCCZqRURm1rvbWKYNjMehFcN0aoWxLtF2yWtm2WeDi0kipQsTL1aHwyuhYwY4zHyad1T-gFnaDKAMWD4_JgU-JxN_xT7BxSselpYVr5WOkYKETYULh0n3dx8/s640/IMG_20180224_124714.jpg" title="501 w5w bulb holder" width="480" /></a></div>
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Use something to measure the diameter of the bulb holders so you know how big to make the holes. The plastic is very soft so go slowly and no need to put much pressure on the drill, you don't want to fly through and damage the lens.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6RYrzunvTJziu4eUxDNv-VDlXha7y_W93QO06ox9-GcC_8_Q4gtw4cYZtVc2zocelgm51CDybCwk8UPivbooJUh-4khZr8gIkvaezFmE2n_5AcfqPFf-x-BbirWC-xpgSMbAWTjN4dcbX/s1600/IMG_20180224_135313.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6RYrzunvTJziu4eUxDNv-VDlXha7y_W93QO06ox9-GcC_8_Q4gtw4cYZtVc2zocelgm51CDybCwk8UPivbooJUh-4khZr8gIkvaezFmE2n_5AcfqPFf-x-BbirWC-xpgSMbAWTjN4dcbX/s640/IMG_20180224_135313.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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My bulb holders were about 13mm and I didn't have any drill bits that big, so I just went as big as I could and then gradually increased the size of the hole with various flat head screwdrivers. This worked very well as the plastic on the rear of the side marker is very soft.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzSkvlRQmb665QPZrIvmM_Fq4w9i0cbcnxf0prKkmRwuSRN8WCoPNO9CQfYn5sQD3i983U6qrNF3IGG4I0w08gnD_Q_hOyQoo9uyk7eXtt2kly94akZOIO9t-2wZVfUn5oqSZ8xDq53eyA/s1600/IMG_20180224_135609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzSkvlRQmb665QPZrIvmM_Fq4w9i0cbcnxf0prKkmRwuSRN8WCoPNO9CQfYn5sQD3i983U6qrNF3IGG4I0w08gnD_Q_hOyQoo9uyk7eXtt2kly94akZOIO9t-2wZVfUn5oqSZ8xDq53eyA/s640/IMG_20180224_135609.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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You want a nice tight fit so the bulb holder doesn't fall out and water and dirt can't get in. You can secure the bulb holder with silicone or similar but I wanted to make it easy to change the bulbs so chose not to do this.<br />
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Remove sidelight/indicator unit and thread wire through to wheel arch<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxTHmrGuNCHN3LTYRJfbKFYyBqe69v0Nfnuvvo4M98ODjs-W7Ncp8ymx1HVMfhCMos1R9b3uq08SuX6YU2ji7qp51kM8UGwqhyphenhyphenMCWO-x0u2o6SyA8vhrD3UAYyadeJ0CgvYAnkcJSGrP9h/s1600/IMG_20180224_131019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Mazda mx5 Miata side light wiring" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxTHmrGuNCHN3LTYRJfbKFYyBqe69v0Nfnuvvo4M98ODjs-W7Ncp8ymx1HVMfhCMos1R9b3uq08SuX6YU2ji7qp51kM8UGwqhyphenhyphenMCWO-x0u2o6SyA8vhrD3UAYyadeJ0CgvYAnkcJSGrP9h/s640/IMG_20180224_131019.jpg" title="Mazda mx5 Miata side light wiring" width="640" /></a></div>
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Again just two phillips screws to remove the sidelight, both bulb holders twist to unlock.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhItzxgSblqS1oXkzqzjLdMETRVNQvUgBt36bkCdeOeKHaRQrni9U-8sV5ZOoVyfPPMNEz9wvhPcEBHo4XxN_D3Bs_vi5uTQmqOIYhcq8jAT6ZTuB_0mc5mv2-R0C6dfzDYAtjT2c55tLKR/s1600/IMG_20180224_131029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhItzxgSblqS1oXkzqzjLdMETRVNQvUgBt36bkCdeOeKHaRQrni9U-8sV5ZOoVyfPPMNEz9wvhPcEBHo4XxN_D3Bs_vi5uTQmqOIYhcq8jAT6ZTuB_0mc5mv2-R0C6dfzDYAtjT2c55tLKR/s640/IMG_20180224_131029.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Pop up your headlights and there's a few holes to feed the wires down into the wheel arch directly under the headlight. I routed the new wires under some of the original wiring to keep it tidy and stop it from flapping around.<br />
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Fit cable lock connectors to positive and ground from the side light<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigZ99t94pEZsoRZtsmxvuKRsJkDmlfIjaFl58LQqFApXYTkAvCEvcY2dQwUhJONDUFm_sadUbNEWFFs3xB-eaQBM4lGOIuR9L9JV_hgswxc5RPha2ACRDOSd70dwZu3E_EXLb09JsHCl-G/s1600/IMG_20180224_141345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigZ99t94pEZsoRZtsmxvuKRsJkDmlfIjaFl58LQqFApXYTkAvCEvcY2dQwUhJONDUFm_sadUbNEWFFs3xB-eaQBM4lGOIuR9L9JV_hgswxc5RPha2ACRDOSd70dwZu3E_EXLb09JsHCl-G/s640/IMG_20180224_141345.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The good thing about the cable lock connectors (also known as scotch locks) is that you do not need to cut any wires to tap into the connection. Watch out that both wires are centred in the connector to ensure a good connection is made.<br />
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Connect bulb holder to new wiring<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl-eTZh7HwgS2bT9o754Zs-x340Ed3IN_7J0xn4xOCiflk1-y1oxuhxFbvN5vX08PnsgUmsgItwAqkXiE1i8uCC3DFej-Hk7XZzdD_iH0n2LbDifN2JgdWLixMJ3HN8el7a-43m3Uxoobj/s1600/IMG_20180224_133450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl-eTZh7HwgS2bT9o754Zs-x340Ed3IN_7J0xn4xOCiflk1-y1oxuhxFbvN5vX08PnsgUmsgItwAqkXiE1i8uCC3DFej-Hk7XZzdD_iH0n2LbDifN2JgdWLixMJ3HN8el7a-43m3Uxoobj/s640/IMG_20180224_133450.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The 501 bulb holders that I bought came with approx 7cm of cable so this needed to be connected to the new cable I just installed. To do this I used bullet connectors from Halfords as a temporary measure however I am intending to solder and shrink wrap this connection as that is a more permanent solution.<br />
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Fit amber bulbs and refit reflectors<br />
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You want to check at this point that everything is still working as it should. Sometimes the scotch lock connectors can be a bit temperamental. So give everything a good wiggle and tug to make sure it's not going to lose a connection as soon as you go over a pothole.<br />
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Secure wire with cable ties<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW2HalSxC1Bx0zPzxZdhNKYGPcEUUgJ3GBeoHGlUyDxZrqKBS5F5f0cz4bAzAFCuP4hS2ZF4ItEa4fX1f2uvwiwK670jfzV3as6Z8S843vYYagYzxcULY2Vac49tg1IN5xP5jV3csGREUc/s1600/IMG_20180224_143829.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW2HalSxC1Bx0zPzxZdhNKYGPcEUUgJ3GBeoHGlUyDxZrqKBS5F5f0cz4bAzAFCuP4hS2ZF4ItEa4fX1f2uvwiwK670jfzV3as6Z8S843vYYagYzxcULY2Vac49tg1IN5xP5jV3csGREUc/s640/IMG_20180224_143829.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Your bumper should have this bracket in it which is ideal for securing the wires to stop them flapping around in the wind.<br />
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You're done<br />
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Like this guide? Spotted that i've done something really dumb? All comments welcome below.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-5432665432287321122018-02-18T19:38:00.000+00:002018-03-02T23:11:29.281+00:00Mazda MX5 MK1 [Tall People Mods] Remove Clutch Foot Rest Pedal<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRVtwQJFhn9jMWpzAhbGhLBklox47pC0dnn0LgTX7SMLBR7NpNJIk4jAUwo0FtTy0nhiDq8eAYxOw_oJV_Nah6vo18lRxVpyOYGT5b653NucbbdkfE7vulKIQU-rEzPKii4Y2zEMAMLw7f/s1600/IMG_20180107_153558_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRVtwQJFhn9jMWpzAhbGhLBklox47pC0dnn0LgTX7SMLBR7NpNJIk4jAUwo0FtTy0nhiDq8eAYxOw_oJV_Nah6vo18lRxVpyOYGT5b653NucbbdkfE7vulKIQU-rEzPKii4Y2zEMAMLw7f/s640/IMG_20180107_153558_001.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I wouldn't be the first one to praise the Mazda MX5 NA for being a great drivers car, nor would I be the first one to comment on it's lack of cabin space...<br />
<br />
I'd actually wanted an MX5 for a while, but being 6ft 5in (195cm for you non-backwards readers) it was always debatable whether I would actually be able to fit in the thing.<br />
<br />
Fortunately I took the plunge and although things were a little tight, with a few small mods I am very* comfortable and importantly can turn the wheel 180 degrees without hitting my knees.<br />
<br />
*ish<br />
<br />
This post is about <b>removing the clutch foot rest pedal</b>, which was one of the easiest, cheapest and most effective mods I made to get more leg room in my MX5.<br />
<br />
The clutch rest pedal is pretty much exactly what it sounds like - it sits to the left of the clutch pedal and it's purpose is for you to rest your foot on when cruisin'.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjxuyTOKBIDhZcvnwYcwsPrMQikUAiUsa19LB__vRYfxzzX6GaiZPZ4ieR0wCVAIPzNPjZ-N_s8NWSuKNCjWAs703l1NMiJsx24AYEpPf_wA8shZgEYctzBxlSfL6hF0_hqQrQ0NW-eDYJ/s1600/IMG_20170917_160158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjxuyTOKBIDhZcvnwYcwsPrMQikUAiUsa19LB__vRYfxzzX6GaiZPZ4ieR0wCVAIPzNPjZ-N_s8NWSuKNCjWAs703l1NMiJsx24AYEpPf_wA8shZgEYctzBxlSfL6hF0_hqQrQ0NW-eDYJ/s640/IMG_20170917_160158.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Unfortunately for us tall drivers, it also takes up a load of valuable leg space.<br />
<br />
Fortunately, it is only held in place by 2 x 10mm fixings.<br />
<br />
Removing the clutch rest pedal will leave 2 threaded studs rising up from the floor which are a bit uncomfortable as you can feel them through your shoes. It's also nice to have a flat platform to brace against when cornering.<br />
<br />
<b>Two options:</b>
<br />
<ol>
<li>Grind them off</li>
<li>Fix something over them</li>
</ol>
<br />
I went with option 2 as I want to be able to put the pedal back in when I sell the car. I had some bits of wood in the shed and thought that'll do...<br />
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The mounting studs are only about 15mm long which is why I had to sink the holes slightly so the nuts could get a bite on the thread.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMapdmDjz23yFroYPDH-cXfh9pG26HNISVhyphenhyphenXM1pC5ngqMCSY62ywjs9BKgbffYxOEQsbkT7D8ybeSdj4y5H4ZyZAP2DVorUd5GaK80LCDZVWp7pe-xY7ZFEtTANI4_Uxo3-JO47fcstRu/s1600/IMG_20170923_105333.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMapdmDjz23yFroYPDH-cXfh9pG26HNISVhyphenhyphenXM1pC5ngqMCSY62ywjs9BKgbffYxOEQsbkT7D8ybeSdj4y5H4ZyZAP2DVorUd5GaK80LCDZVWp7pe-xY7ZFEtTANI4_Uxo3-JO47fcstRu/s640/IMG_20170923_105333.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Side shot shows just how huge the plastic dead pedal is compared with my delicately hand-crafted replacement.<br />
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Doesn't exactly look fantastic but this was just a test fit and I wasn't sure if I was going to keep the mod.<br />
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This summer I might paint it black and then stick some grip tape or similar on the front face to make it blend in more.<br />
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At first it feels a little strange as you have to lift your foot more to press the clutch rather than slide over to it, however after a couple of hours driving you will completely adapt to it.<br />
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More Mazda MX5 tall people mods coming soon...<br />
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Please let me know in the comments if you found this helpful and also any other recommended mods for tall drivers of MX5 Miatas.<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-60487378430372073472017-09-30T21:19:00.000+01:002017-09-30T21:20:29.861+01:00VW MK5 Golf GTi TFSI Brake Booster Hose 1K0 612 041 GM Information<br />
This is just a short post to help anyone else out and save them doing the research I had to.<br />
<br />
The brake booster hose connects directly to the vacuum pump as part of the system to give power assisted braking. There is also a check valve which prevents boost from going into the vacuum pump.<br />
<br />
Over time the hoses can become brittle and start to crack around the connections, the plastic check valve also becomes brittle and can be easily damaged when working on the car.<br />
<br />
Failures of this part can result in several symptoms:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Loss of power braking assist</li>
<li>Check valve failing to close resulting in loss of boost pressure</li>
<li>Idle and vacuum issues</li>
</ul>
<br />
Side note: The short rubber hose between the check valve and the inlet is a popular place to take a boost tap from to operate a boost gauge or vacuum operated diverter valves such as the Forge Recirculating Valve (FMFSITVR ).<br />
<br />
VW part numbers:<br />
<ul>
<li>Original part number: 1K0 612 041 BM (shown below without extra vacuum nipple)</li>
<li>Superseded part number: 1K0 612 041 CH (also without extra vacuum nipple</li>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjSmT2eI0kSQc3iESyPwUrTez-CVYwaLcntY5sICX8p92-ueYi341vv2MQ2eavbZZPGuSCp2Sph0EbPM_Fr1Bfj1OI0QZ1PVTSBM4V2bXb_mul-1v9-jdiHFniiI6oVI-hRxReF-3d4BuV/s1600/vacuum-hoseIMG_20161022_152541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="1K0612041BM brake vacuum hose" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjSmT2eI0kSQc3iESyPwUrTez-CVYwaLcntY5sICX8p92-ueYi341vv2MQ2eavbZZPGuSCp2Sph0EbPM_Fr1Bfj1OI0QZ1PVTSBM4V2bXb_mul-1v9-jdiHFniiI6oVI-hRxReF-3d4BuV/s640/vacuum-hoseIMG_20161022_152541.jpg" title="1K0612041BM brake vacuum hose" width="560" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1K0612041BM brake vacuum hose</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<ul>
<li>Latest part number: 1K0 612 041 GM (as shown below with extra vacuum nipple)</li>
</ul>
<div>
If you car does not have a pipe for the vacuum nipple (e.g. AXX) then you can just block this off, the genuine part number for this is 056 129 777 which looks like a mini green traffic cone.</div>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiESaqw5786bgwgczu7g9qsnSsEoC-ulVeXVE4gIaeBXvR97US8hztkUP7Fa7yLYniC4mTI3f_iL5amhEzMxrmimPJ0-S0BuUwX51HFUkCiISNJiZV7HsrcNQugWldqaPUTEDTsZ6llw4ti/s1600/104562_x800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiESaqw5786bgwgczu7g9qsnSsEoC-ulVeXVE4gIaeBXvR97US8hztkUP7Fa7yLYniC4mTI3f_iL5amhEzMxrmimPJ0-S0BuUwX51HFUkCiISNJiZV7HsrcNQugWldqaPUTEDTsZ6llw4ti/s640/104562_x800.jpg" width="560" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">1K0 612 041 GM latest part number. </span>Photo owned by ECSTuning.com</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-80322951299512145132017-01-29T19:32:00.000+00:002017-01-29T19:35:47.089+00:00VW Mk5 Golf GTi (TFSI) Misfire When Engine Is Warm<div>
This post summarised for anyone in a rush...</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Car</b></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>2005 VW MK5 Golf GTI 2.0 (AXX engine)</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Symptoms</b></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Slight misfire on idle when engine is warm</li>
<li>No symptoms when engine is cold</li>
</ul>
<div>
<b><br /></b>
<b>Fix</b>
<br />
<ul>
<li>New coil pack for cylinder 1</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<h3>
<b>More information</b></h3>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
I recently sold my 2005 Honda Civic Type R (EP3) and bought a 2005 VW Mk5 GTI in the hope of moving to something a little more torque-y and refined.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I was going through that first month or so of owning a new used car which I hate with a passion. You know, when you're constantly thinking:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Have I bought a lemon?</li>
<li>Was that a knock?</li>
<li>Is that sound normal?</li>
<li>Is the engine going to explode</li>
</ul>
<div>
Well anyway, during that enjoyable period I noticed that when the car was up to temperature it would slightly stumble occasionally on idle, most "non-car" people wouldn't have noticed it, but anyone into their motors would.</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I did not experience any hesitation or loss of power, but after scaring myself with stories of compression loss and head gasket failure I decided the first sensible option would be to change the coil packs and spark plugs.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>So I ordered the following parts:</b></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Genuine VW coilpack - 07K 905 715 G (previous revision 07K905715F)</li>
<li>Bosch spark plug - 101 905 631 H (Bosch part number: FR5KPP332S)</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
Before I had a chance to fit these the misfire got much worse and finally conked out and wouldn't run at all.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Luckily I had an OBDII bluetooth adapter and Torque for Android which enabled me to read the OBDII fault codes to get a better idea of what was going on.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>OBD Scan Result: </b></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected</li>
<li>P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected</li>
<li>P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected</li>
<li>P0351 - Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
Coil A = Cylinder 1 so at least that seemed consistent. However, still not conclusive that this is a coil or spark plug issue.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I changed the spark plugs first but this made no difference. The old plugs and coils were pretty filthy though with lots of corrosion build up pretty much everywhere where you don't want corrosion build up.<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNZAbAvSVu8eXQD64XOL8FWFFqXBwqAk3PfHATf7lUfa5r8B-O80LpG6gs_5NXUsw6hhpE-8KoK2jQfe_ptI3iJ6m8pUdlX9ulzc7bO5KnQg1eLXz6Nff9JRT0yLmobltaTa4XWgRnbwMI/s1600/golf-spark-plugs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="bad bosch spark plugs from golf mk5 gti" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNZAbAvSVu8eXQD64XOL8FWFFqXBwqAk3PfHATf7lUfa5r8B-O80LpG6gs_5NXUsw6hhpE-8KoK2jQfe_ptI3iJ6m8pUdlX9ulzc7bO5KnQg1eLXz6Nff9JRT0yLmobltaTa4XWgRnbwMI/s640/golf-spark-plugs.jpg" title="bad bosch spark plugs from golf mk5 gti" width="560" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
After changing the coil pack on cylinder 1 the engine fired straight up and the misfire disappeared.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Problem solved.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-56839021696715233352016-08-22T22:20:00.004+01:002021-05-10T21:32:21.732+01:00Cleaning Cloudy/Foggy Car Headlights With Bar Keepers Friend<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBRKUGccntIdWCFKdLY0R8WPE6-bpAjKf-ZFIC4vzP1wZgXqy32oQSM3skOnJMrhrOjjS227H6r_p83VhkyBc-zk5L5hPkISDBJhzqOBaTo5Oe5bfbIzQhCH-UGQL7t6gZx-vfZ9EK24Nn/s1600/misty-headlights-1.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="before and after cloudy headights" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBRKUGccntIdWCFKdLY0R8WPE6-bpAjKf-ZFIC4vzP1wZgXqy32oQSM3skOnJMrhrOjjS227H6r_p83VhkyBc-zk5L5hPkISDBJhzqOBaTo5Oe5bfbIzQhCH-UGQL7t6gZx-vfZ9EK24Nn/s640/misty-headlights-1.jpg" title="before and after cloudy headights" width="560" /></a>Cloudy car headlights not only look bad, but they are also dangerous for two reasons:<br />
<ol>
<li>Reduces the amount of light which makes it out of the headlights and onto the road, where you want it.</li>
<li>It impairs the all important scattering of the beam, causing glare for other road users.</li>
</ol>
<div>
It is possible to fail an MOT for cloudy headlights as it ruins the light scattering. A local garage tried to charge us £60 just to clean our cloudy headlights so it's well worth looking at alternative methods and doing it yourself!<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
There are many ways of cleaning headlights which have gone foggy and using Bar Keepers Friend is just one of them which I have used with good success so I thought I would share.</div>
<div>
<br />
<h3>
Bar Keepers Friend vs. Brite Powder Power</h3>
</div>
<div>
To avoid confusion from my photos, Bar Keepers Friend recently re-branded to Brite Powder Power, so they are exactly the same product, just a different label.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Bar Keepers Friend is a more familiar brand which has been around for quite a while and has many uses around the home including cleaning kitchen pans, toilets and as covered in one of our previous posts, it is also excellent at <a href="http://www.pugaddicts.co.uk/2015/11/bar-keepers-friend-brite-power-powder.html">cleaning car windscreens</a>.</div>
<div>
<br />
<h3>
How to clean your headlights</h3>
</div>
<div>
Cleaning cloudy car headlights with Bar Keepers Friend (Brite Powder Power) is very quick and easy and in a few minutes you will have lovely clear headlight lenses again.<br />
<br />
The advantage of using this method to restore headlights instead of wet sanding them is that Bar Keepers Friend does not scuff up the lenses so much that you need to polish them back clear again.<br />
<br />
For really badly clouded headlights it may not be enough but for the price of Bar Keepers Friend <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BLKGJ2G/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=6738&creativeASIN=B00BLKGJ2G&linkCode=as2&tag=306info-21" rel="nofollow">on Amazon</a> (£3.10 with Free Delivery) it's certainly worth a go. If you are not a fan of Amazon then it is also available on <a href="https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1311&_nkw=bar+keepers+friend&_sacat=0&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=3&campid=5338806578&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1">eBay</a>. N.B I have had to buy this a couple of times in the past and it was not readily available in local shops so I had to purchase online.</div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVbc_EHyZ-3ya0e96s-mzmYbRkxQHVCtzOmxotp8ru4aNRt48EGDOeGmRxV7M1jsXFCCQg1X8mwD_mCC1WwAsfLBo7HQQLMumfKI9JphIq2R7v33XnMI0ygcEBEgza-zqs9TjtoeqzBow3/s1600/headlights-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVbc_EHyZ-3ya0e96s-mzmYbRkxQHVCtzOmxotp8ru4aNRt48EGDOeGmRxV7M1jsXFCCQg1X8mwD_mCC1WwAsfLBo7HQQLMumfKI9JphIq2R7v33XnMI0ygcEBEgza-zqs9TjtoeqzBow3/s640/headlights-2.jpg" width="560" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<h3>
Required</h3>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Polishing pad or cloth</li>
<li>Bucket of water</li>
<li>Bar Keepers Friend</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
<div>
<h3>
Step-by-step guide</h3>
</div>
<div>
<b>Step 1.</b> Lightly wash the headlights and surrounding area with the polishing cloth and water</div>
<div>
This is just to remove any grit which might be sitting on the headlights. Even though the plastic used in headlights is generally very hard-wearing, you don't want to risk accidentally creating scratches in the lenses or paintwork around the headlights when you rub in the Bar Keepers Friend.<br />
<br />
<b>Step 2. </b>Pour a small amount of the Bar Keepers Friend onto the damp polishing pad and work into the headlight lens. The moisture from the polishing pad will turn the powder into an abrasive paste and you should be able to feel that it is rough against the headlight lens.<br />
<br />
You should apply a good amount of pressure and polish in a circular motion being very careful to avoid touching the paintwork as this could mark your paint.<br />
<br />
Depending on how badly fogged your headlights are this could take up to 15 minutes of constant polishing for each headlight and you will need to re-apply the powder to the polishing cloth every couple of minutes. Who said saving money would be easy?<br />
<br />
<b>Step 3.</b> Once you are satisfied that the headlights have been restored then you need to gently wash all the powder residue from around the headlights and bodywork. This is easily done with some water and sponge.<br />
<br />
<b>Step 4.</b> Stand back and admire you restored car headlights.<br />
<br />
Tried this out and impressed (or unimpressed) with the results? Please leave your comments below.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4AjwniWvAn92O2P1DQi0A2nQ7tLChW1ME6wzn4EoOQ7EGHnwE4o5dmxvIGfOzQ6NNHcV-RWKGc44ou2jClx67zN1hfi1lqrCrlEBMYrJ-0dnG1pUcWQmHivXXp1RpX0RbOHUkWoSsvZdJ/s1600/headlights-3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="restored car headlights" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4AjwniWvAn92O2P1DQi0A2nQ7tLChW1ME6wzn4EoOQ7EGHnwE4o5dmxvIGfOzQ6NNHcV-RWKGc44ou2jClx67zN1hfi1lqrCrlEBMYrJ-0dnG1pUcWQmHivXXp1RpX0RbOHUkWoSsvZdJ/s640/headlights-3.jpg" title="restored car headlights" width="560" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-51384271969235830272016-07-29T23:23:00.000+01:002016-08-22T22:21:19.670+01:00Why does my car squeal?If you are wondering why your car is making a squealing noise then this quick guide should help you find the cause of the squeal. Don't let it annoy you any longer...<br />
<br />
99% of high pitched squealing noises from cars are likely to be caused by either:<br />
<ol>
<li>Fan belt</li>
<li>Brakes</li>
</ol>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Identify the cause of the squeal</b></span><br />
When the engine is cold and the car is parked, open the bonnet and then start the engine. The fan belt is often located on the left side of the engine and you should be able to see it moving when the engine is running.<br />
<br />
Listen for noise coming from this area, particularly when the belt is under extra load.<br />
<br />
You can put extra load on the fan belt in a few different ways depending on your particular model of car:<br />
<ul>
<li>Increase the engine revs</li>
<li>Put the alternator under load e.g. turn on full beam headlights, heated rear windscreen etc.</li>
<li>Turn on the air conditioning</li>
<li>Turn the steering wheel to full lock and then back again</li>
</ul>
Cars most often squeal after the car has been left overnight, particularly if it is damp - this is because the alternator is putting extra load on the belt as it's trying to re-charge the battery and also dampness can reduce grip, causing the belt to slip.<br />
<br />
If you can hear the squealing noise when the car is stationary, then the problem is probably your fan belt (also known as alternator belt, aux belt or accessory belt) and you should check out <a href="http://www.pugaddicts.co.uk/2016/02/how-to-solve-that-squeally-fan-belt.html">our guide</a> on how to fix it.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUrskStNlozQ_u2zIDYJx9c7ag0Q_aGWcAEZkfEg-h7yKzteUk5cVf_g9aJK3vnFX-eBgsOfWh6-ttBNHJBmlKP3NwbdqT3MKxjGSLwF5Ua047ZZ1_nR6rEb5_bu_KmyaUGwSZIo9MxYOC/s1600/honda-civic-fan-belt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUrskStNlozQ_u2zIDYJx9c7ag0Q_aGWcAEZkfEg-h7yKzteUk5cVf_g9aJK3vnFX-eBgsOfWh6-ttBNHJBmlKP3NwbdqT3MKxjGSLwF5Ua047ZZ1_nR6rEb5_bu_KmyaUGwSZIo9MxYOC/s640/honda-civic-fan-belt.jpg" width="560" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A worn fan belt on a Honda Civic Type R</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If you cannot hear the squeal noise when the car is parked with the engine running then it is quite likely that the noise is related to your brakes. Go for a drive with the windows down and determine if it happens when you are driving or only under braking.<br />
<br />
Unless you have a seized brake caliper then any squealing is only going to occur when you apply the brakes to slow down. If you car squeals when you apply the brakes then I would strongly recommend taking it to a professional.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-84155930625063065442016-02-15T21:27:00.000+00:002016-08-03T22:16:49.215+01:00How to Solve That Squeaky Fan Belt Noise<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUrskStNlozQ_u2zIDYJx9c7ag0Q_aGWcAEZkfEg-h7yKzteUk5cVf_g9aJK3vnFX-eBgsOfWh6-ttBNHJBmlKP3NwbdqT3MKxjGSLwF5Ua047ZZ1_nR6rEb5_bu_KmyaUGwSZIo9MxYOC/s1600/honda-civic-fan-belt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="squeaky fan belt noise" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUrskStNlozQ_u2zIDYJx9c7ag0Q_aGWcAEZkfEg-h7yKzteUk5cVf_g9aJK3vnFX-eBgsOfWh6-ttBNHJBmlKP3NwbdqT3MKxjGSLwF5Ua047ZZ1_nR6rEb5_bu_KmyaUGwSZIo9MxYOC/s640/honda-civic-fan-belt.jpg" title="squeaky fan belt noise" width="560" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A worn fan belt on a Honda Civic Type R</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Fed up of that annoying squeal from your fan belt every time you start the car? Yep me to. That's why I wrote this article.<br />
<br />
Luckily, the most common cause of squealing is the auxiliary belt/fan belt which can normally be fixed relatively easily by the home mechanic, the good news is that even if you do have to take the car to a garage, the cost is likely to be low. Before calling a garage, make sure you read our blog post all about the causes of squeaky/squealing fan belts and how you might be able to fix the problem by yourself for free!<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Fan belt vs alternator belt vs auxiliary belt vs serpentine belt vs vs accessory belt</b></span><br />
Confusing eh? 99% of the time these terms are all referring to the same thing, which is a belt powered by the engine to drive auxiliary components such as the cooling fan, alternator, power steering pump or air conditioning compressor.<br />
<br />
To minimise confusion, for the rest of this article I will refer to this belt as the 'fan belt'. One because that's what most people still tend to call it, and two because it's quicker to type. ;-)<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Why does the fan belt squeal?</b></span><br />
<b>The squeal/squeak noise is caused by the fan belt slipping on the pulleys. There are several possible reasons for why this happens.</b><br />
<br />
When electrical load is applied to the alternator (e.g. turning the steering wheel in a car with electric power assisted steering) it takes more force to turn and so there is a greater amount of friction the fan belt must overcome to turn which makes it more likely to slip.<br />
<br />
Fan belts are designed with V shaped grooves which run the entire length of the belt. This allows the belt to slip a certain amount, this is because the load on the accessories driven by the fan belt can suddenly increase, and without this ability to slip then they would likely snap.<br />
<br />
You are more likely to hear that annoying squeaky noise on damp mornings if the car has been left overnight. This is because the dampness can cause the belt to have less grip and also because if it's cold, the alternator will have more load on it.<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Five possible causes:</span></b><br />
<ol>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Worn fan belt</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Incorrect fan belt tension</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Oil leak in engine bay</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Seized components driven by the belt</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Pulleys/components are out of alignment</span></li>
</ol>
<ol>
</ol>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">1. Worn fan belt</span></b><br />
Fan belts are made with rubbers which degrade and glaze over time. Moisture, oil and heat cycles all contribute to this process and once the belt is glazed it is more likely to slip and cause that annoying squeal sound.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">2. Incorrect fan belt tension</span></b><br />
Quite simply, if the belt is too lose it will 'slip' on the pulleys which will cause that annoying high pitched squealing noise.<br />
<br />
A crude way to test the tension of the belt is to press on the belt between two pulleys with your thumb - you should get about 1/2 inch of deflection. This should give you a rough idea of whether your fan belt is tensioned correctly.<br />
<br />
Depending on what car you have, the tension of the fan belt will either be set manually or by an auto adjusting tensioner.<br />
<br />
If the tension can be manually adjusted then refer to a Haynes manual or similar to find out how to carry out this procedure.<br />
<br />
If your engine uses auto adjusting tensioners then these should be replaced along with the fan belt.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">3. Oil leak in engine bay</span></b><br />
If your fan belt belt or the various pulleys which it runs through become contaminated with oil, even just a fine mist coating, this will reduce the grip the belt has and will cause it to slip and squeal more than usual.<br />
<br />
Oil leaks in the engine bay are more likely to occur on engines with a turbo because any small leaks in the intake system or intercooler pipework (which are under pressure on boost) are likely to spray fine droplets of oil all over your engine bay.<br />
<br />
To rectify this problem you need to find and fix the oil leak (which can be easier said than done) and then replace the fan belt being sure to also clean any pullies, tensioners and guides to remove any oil residue.<br />
<br />
I have also heard of 'other fluids' such as power steering fluid or coolant causing belts to slip so it is worth checking for leaks from the reservoir as well.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">4. Seized components driven by the belt</span></b><br />
If the alternator bearings or any of the pulleys are seized/sticky then this could cause the belt to slip simply because it is creating more drag than the belt can handle.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">5. Pulleys out of alignment</span></b><br />
If the belt guides are out of alignment the belt cannot sit properly and will cause a noise. Normally, fan belt noises which are caused by misalignment of the pulleys will be more of a chirping noise than a squeal.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Fixes</span></b><br />
Before spending money on new belts or professionals, the cheapest and easiest thing to try is cleaning the belt and pulleys with carb cleaner or even a mild detergent mix. In some cases the slipping belt is caused by contamination from oil or other fluids from the engine bay and simply cleaning this off will stop the noise. In any case cleaning the belt and pulleys should help increase friction slipping and causing that irritating squeaking sound.<br />
<br />
One diagnosis method is to spray a bit of water on the ribbed side of the belt when the engine is running and making the noise. If the noise stops then this is likely cause by an alignment issue. If the noise gets worse then it is likely a friction issue.<br />
<br />
Please feel free to leave any comments or tips you might have for other readers below.<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-55873302810328201102016-02-02T21:59:00.000+00:002016-02-04T22:01:46.619+00:00[Solved] Honda Civic both headlights not working on dipped beamI turned the headlights on my 2005 Honda Civic EP3 Type R to drive home the other evening and both bulbs went out after about half a second on dipped beam. Strangely, main beam was still working perfectly.<br />
<br />
<b>Full symptoms:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Dipped beam not working for both headlights</li>
<li>Full beam working as normal</li>
<li>Sidelights working as normal</li>
<li>Dash lights working as normal when combination light switch is toggled to the dipped beam position</li>
</ul>
Great, I thought, what were the chances of both bulbs going at the same time? I always jump to the worst case scenario and assumed the alternator must have surged and blown both bulbs, or I was going to be cursed with some nightmare intermittent electrical fault requiring hours of diagnostics (electrics isn't my strong point).<br />
<br />
At best I thought I was going to have to try and track down a blown fuse or relay.<br />
<br />
So I started looking through my service manual and found the Honda Civic Type R headlight circuit diagram.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Headlights circuit diagram</span></b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLPiotGK5qJMbXWOv-MtP8n4vHc-Amv5_zVk5qh2_g-9OQ69AhbLz6FN8hdMK98PR9Eir8rY-cjoGQRbCfj2wIYTwsrw5fLQ9g1fEaGD2PM6p-J4H5rPFsaBQga8r4cGq9kr6oHt_W7ABC/s1600/headlight-circuit-diagram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLPiotGK5qJMbXWOv-MtP8n4vHc-Amv5_zVk5qh2_g-9OQ69AhbLz6FN8hdMK98PR9Eir8rY-cjoGQRbCfj2wIYTwsrw5fLQ9g1fEaGD2PM6p-J4H5rPFsaBQga8r4cGq9kr6oHt_W7ABC/s400/headlight-circuit-diagram.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Click to expand</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There is some misinformation online, where people are posting that the fuses are separate for main and dipped beam, but what this diagram clearly shows is that the right and left headlights each have their own relay and fuse which "control" both main and dipped beam.<br />
<br />
So the fuses and relays are split into the right and left headlight, rather than dipped and main beam - from a safety perspective this makes perfect sense as you wouldn't want to be driving down a country lane and have a fuse blow which wipes out dipped beams on both sides would you?<br />
<br />
The <b>good news</b> is that this eliminated the relays and fuses as the cause of the fault, as if either of them had gone then full beam would not be working in the affected headlight either.<br />
<br />
On the next probable culprit - the <b>combination light switch</b> aka the 'stalk' on the steering wheel which controls.<br />
<br />
Faulty combination switch on Honda Civic<br />
After some googling, I found that lots of owners have reported faulty combination switches and I believe there was even a recall in America for them. Basically the terminals get corroded and don't make a connection when you<br />
<br />
Luckily, it looks quite easy to remove the combination switch to test it:<br />
<ul>
<li>Remove 3 x screws holding lower steering wheel surround in place</li>
<li>Separate from upper steering wheel surround</li>
<li>Remove 2 x screw from on front of combination switch to allow it to be removed from the steering column</li>
</ul>
<div>
However, I didn't have to do that as I thought I would test to see if the headlight bulbs were actually getting power first.</div>
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Check the dipped headlight bulb is getting power</span></b><br />
<br />
The dipped beam headlight harness connector is really easy to access and can be pulled off to access the plug.<br />
<br />
To test the lights are getting power:<br />
<ol>
<li>Turn on the ignition (no need to start the engine) and turn the combination switch so the headlights should be on.</li>
<li>Set your multimeter to measure DC voltage.</li>
<li>The light harness connector only has two terminals. Put the red multimeter probe on one and the black probe on the negative terminal of the battery. You should get a reading of around 11.9v. If you don't get anything, try the other terminal on the headlight harness.</li>
<li>Once you have found which terminal is live, set your multimeter to continuity mode and check the other terminal against the negative terminal on the battery.</li>
</ol>
<div>
If you have 11.9v on live and a solid ground back to the negative terminal of the battery then congratulations, both your bulbs are just blown.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
If you don't, then i'm sorry but I can't help you. More investigation would be needed, my first port of call would be checking the combination switch, lots of owners have reported obvious visual damage to the terminals.<br />
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Conclusion</b></span><br />
Both dipped beam headlight bulbs are blown! Well at least that's an easy fix. I was still curious as to how this could have happened so I did a bit more research which I thought I would share.<br />
<br />
1) It is fairly common that both headlight bulbs blow within a short time of each other. The reason behind this is probably that bulbs are made to tightly controlled specifications and so you could assume that under almost identical operating conditions, and in the absence of manufacturing defects, you would expect them to have a similar service life.<br />
<br />
2) Many times where people claim both bulbs blew at the same time, what actually happened was one bulb was already blown but they didn't notice until the only remaining bulb went, when it becomes very obvious. This ties in with the above point about headlight bulbs blowing within short periods of each other.<br />
<br />
3) The other possibility is that they really did blow at the same time and as the first one went it caused a change in voltage which blew the other one. I have no idea how mechanically sound this theory is but it seems plausible.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>The Fix</b></span><br />
I can't say I'm best pleased as these bulbs were relatively expensive Osram Nightbreakers which were only just over 12 months old (and conveniently just out of warranty). After reading some reviews online I decided to get some cheaper Bosch Pure Light bulbs (based on their excellent review by <a href="http://www.which.co.uk/cars/driving/sat-navs-and-car-accessories/best-car-headlight-bulbs/best-buy-car-headlight-bulbs/">Which?</a>) and I honestly cannot notice the difference between them and the premium Osram's.<br />
<br />
2005 Honda Civic Type R bulb type for dipped beam is H1 55W 12V if anyone is wondering.<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-64006867708153773422016-01-18T20:07:00.002+00:002016-01-18T20:07:48.638+00:007 top tips to stop car windows misting up<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEhRanDoq1XuG7kN3_5cQDTXFEDuUDZnxZQc12l-ogpEfzFEB8LElXQAjx0oGyheUXaOFuGATK1NG4IxfEjloRpoY19kcbquWEeiijoLCraMYY7uMDrmAW2MuueK6qWLe8O_qYOcPr0Xib/s1600/condensation-windows.jpg" width="560"><img border="0" height="344" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEhRanDoq1XuG7kN3_5cQDTXFEDuUDZnxZQc12l-ogpEfzFEB8LElXQAjx0oGyheUXaOFuGATK1NG4IxfEjloRpoY19kcbquWEeiijoLCraMYY7uMDrmAW2MuueK6qWLe8O_qYOcPr0Xib/s640/condensation-windows.jpg" width="560" /></a></div>
<br />
Fed up of getting into your car only to find the windows are misted/steamed up and you can't go anywhere until they clear? Read on for our top tips on how to prevent this annoying issue from happening in the first place.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">1) Check for leaks</span></b><br />
Excessive moisture must be coming from somewhere! Check everywhere for leaks and damp patches. Common leaky points are around door seals (especially the bottom), sunroofs, windscreen and boot lids, but also rear lights and rear wheel arches. Also check around the front foot wells and dash in case you have a leaky heater matrix. Don't forget to lift floor mats and carpets.<br />
<br />
Feel around these areas with your hands and you should instantly be able to tell if they are damp, especially if it's been raining.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">2) Remove moisture with a dehumidifier</span></b><br />
A cheap solution is to put a few of those silica gel packets you get inside the packaging of shoes and other products in your door pockets. However, there are specially designed car dehumidifier products such as the <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00I3VKBJS?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creativeASIN=B00I3VKBJS&linkCode=xm2&tag=306info-21" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Pingi LV-A300</a> which are available for a few pounds and will do a better job and can be reused as many times as you need!<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">3) Reduce moisture brought into the car</span></b><br />
Even just walking to the car when it's raining can introduce a significant amount of moisture into the inside of your car, by keeping the windows closed (as we generally do when it's raining) this moisture has nowhere to go and will condense on the windows when they drop below the dew point. If you can shake umbrellas and coats off before putting them in the car this will help a bit, also remember to remove them when you get out.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">4) Clean the inside of your windows</span></b><br />
Dust, oil and grease which naturally builds up on the inside of your car windows (especially the windscreen) effectively increases the surface area which water droplets can cling to. This will not eliminate misting but it will reduce the severity of it, increasing visibility and safety.<br />
<br />
Wipe thoroughly with a good quality glass cleaner and clean microfibre cloth.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">5) Apply an anti fog coating to the windscreen</span></b><br />
There are several products on the market such as <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002G291SW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=6738&creativeASIN=B002G291SW&linkCode=as2&tag=306info-21" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Rain-X Anti Fog</a> which are specially designed to prevent condensation forming in the first place. I've not tried this product personally but here is what some customers on Amazon have said:<br />
<br />
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002G291SW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=6738&creativeASIN=B002G291SW&linkCode=as2&tag=306info-21" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="380" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAM8SuLGNtp1Lo9URQ8C4jscoPCuVP9cL0F6Ffl8RSDL2Wzv-tXmWyRKEDRwWzS4zPB6Qr30tcC-1fB04U3SkaVoLA12shLuuvWxXFYpWBhKQbw4fgDerA9HBJBOLzpxuYGGS6OWOxcHk5/s640/rain-x-fog-reviews-2.jpg" width="560" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">6) Check your pollen filter</span></b><br />
A blocked pollen filter will significantly reduce the amount of air which can circulate in the cabin, meaning damp air cannot escape. If it is really blocked up then all this dirt and gunk will hold moisture from the air as it is drawn through and will not dry out, meaning when you turn on the cabin vents damp air will be drawn into the cabin. Pollen filters are usually very easy to access so check your owners manual for how to do this.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">7) Remove damp cloths/demister pads</span></b><br />
If you do get any condensation and use a cloth or demister pad to wipe it clean, remove this from the car when you get out and dry it at home or work. If you leave it in the car the moisture will evaporate and end up back on your windows a few hours later. Kind of like a miniature and more annoying water cycle.<br />
<br />
Whilst you're working on preventing the issue, try these tips to help clear the moisture quicker:<br />
<br />
<b>1) Turn your air conditioning on</b><br />
Air conditioning removes significant amounts of moisture from the air as part of the cooling process, so if you have working air con, crank it up. This will be the fastest way to clear the condensation.<br />
<br />
<b>2) Turn off re-circulate</b><br />
Most cars have a setting to re-circulate the air in the cabin rather than use fresh air from outside for the heaters. This is great if you're driving past a stinky farm or want to heat up quickly, not so good for clearing away moisture.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>3) Open the window</b><br />
This tends to work best when it's dry outside. Remember you want the warm moisture filled air inside the car to escape, if it's raining and high humidity outside then opening a window will not be very effective. Still, letting the warm air escape should help.<br />
<br />
<b>4) Park your car in a garage</b><br />
This will not only help keep your car out of the rain if the cause is water ingress, but it will also keep the temperature of your windscreen from getting too cold which should prevent condensation forming.<br />
<br />
Hope this helps! If you've tried out any of our tips or have something else to add we'd love to hear from you. Please leave your comments below.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-32481568591182899782015-11-02T21:26:00.000+00:002015-11-02T21:33:41.905+00:00Bar Keepers Friend (Brite Power Powder) To Clean Windscreen<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpZQuLtrVjBiOznG3UZ_1pg85l-FCPdVwjZuNNGzykLLcw43XvCqh6qw1u7rlPeD66AfRCOetiHfwv3G7-rxh2Cl_2CjDaKxrue1rXW4POzrEWKMsWaCjb9p-xrSYliL9GpzN1NCE1zA5O/s1600/smeared-windscreen.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="windscreen smears" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpZQuLtrVjBiOznG3UZ_1pg85l-FCPdVwjZuNNGzykLLcw43XvCqh6qw1u7rlPeD66AfRCOetiHfwv3G7-rxh2Cl_2CjDaKxrue1rXW4POzrEWKMsWaCjb9p-xrSYliL9GpzN1NCE1zA5O/s640/smeared-windscreen.jpg" title="windscreen smears" width="560" /></a></div>
Bar Keepers Friend (now re-branded as Brite Power Powder) is the best product i've found for removing smears/grease/film from windscreens. It's cheap, easy to use, and leaves a perfect smear free finish. Curious? Well then read on to find out more.
<br />
<br />
<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">What causes windscreen smears?</span></h4>
Windscreen smears are caused by all the general c**p that lands on your windscreen: dirt, grime, grease, car shampoo with wax, old/poorly applied windscreen sealants, tar, oil, diesel fumes etc. The list goes on.<br />
<br />
If it's not properly cleaned, this layer of greasy contaminants will build up over years and becomes more and more difficult to remove.<br />
<br />
Often, this layer cannot be removed with standard glass cleaning products, no mater how hard you scrub, they just don't have the strength to cut through the baked on layer of grease and grime.<br />
<br />
I even tried using a clay bar but this made little impact.<br />
<br />
<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">The solution?</span></h4>
I turned to Google and found a LOT of people seemed to be raving about Bar Keepers Friend for cleaning windscreens and other glass.<br />
<br />
A quick trip to the local discount store and a couple of quid later I was ready to go.<br />
<br />
The active ingredient in Bar Keepers Friend/Brite Power Powder is oxalic acid, which is found in spinach, rhubarb and other green vegetables. When working the powder into the windscreen you can feel it biting, it feels like an abrasive.<br />
<br />
The best part about this product is how easy it is to use:<br />
<ol>
<li>Quickly wash windscreen with water and a sponge to get the worst of the dirt off</li>
<li>Sprinkle the Bar Keepers Friend on a damp microfibre polishing pad</li>
<li>Work the powder into the windscreen in circular motions, with reasonable pressure until the powder has dissolved.</li>
<li>Thoroughly rinse the windscreen with water and a sponge to remove any remnants of the powder. You may also want to rinse the surrounding paint work to ensure non of the diluted powder is left to dry.</li>
</ol>
In a little over 5 minutes later my windscreen was like new. I also gave the wiper blades a clean/degrease with a microfibre cloth and traditional glass cleaner. At the weekend I think i'll buy some new ones anyway as the passenger side is an inch longer than it should be.<br />
<br />
<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">Bar Keepers Friend vs Brite Power Powder</span></h4>
Bar Keepers Friend is the original branding, and there are many threads (like <a href="http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=199453" target="_blank">this one</a>, and <a href="http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=347260" target="_blank">this one</a>) on the internet raving about how great it is at cleaning windscreens. However, Bar Keepers Friend is now sold as Brite Powder Power. Exactly the same formula, made by the same people. Just with a different label on the bottle. I was told this by more than one store assistant when trying to find Bar Keepers Friend.<br />
<br />
Conveniently, Bar Keepers Friend is also great at cleaning oven glass, stainless steel, porcelain sinks, showers, BBQ grills and loads more around the house.<br />
<br />
<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">Results</span></h4>
I honestly can't fault this product. It's cheap, easy to use, extremely effective and you can use it elsewhere around the house.<br />
<br />
<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">Where to buy</span></h4>
This product is reported to be available at many supermarkets and discounters e.g Wilko. However, I just bought mine from <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0020IL0X6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=6738&creativeASIN=B0020IL0X6&linkCode=as2&tag=306info-21" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Amazon</a>.<br />
<br />
<br />
Have you used this product? Please leave your comments below with your feedback.<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-43573169204691395452015-10-16T23:18:00.000+01:002016-01-19T20:51:20.249+00:0010 Gifts For Petrolheads (That they actually want)Looking for a gift for a petrolhead but feeling a bit lost in the world of oil, horsepower and turbos? Luckily for you, i'm a petrolhead/car enthusiast and i've put together this list of the best gifts for petrolheads of all ages starting from under £10.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">1. Haynes Build Your Own V8 Engine</span></b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00EQ4JOBC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=6738&creativeASIN=B00EQ4JOBC&linkCode=as2&tag=306info-21" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTeZewQHfhdMR_EWH4YsqEy5Ey_bNK-_c7u8_hw3S9BsBk63cgHBq0wl-MleVXGBcEn9mcn-RtsKFNM_Z3Px9vmp6qwd7afWXWpjPVh3tOMh96GzV7QNhi34sgU-err-rjnmzktOdB58j8/s640/haynes-v8-engine-2.jpg" width="560" /></a></div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
Unfortunately, many petrolheads will not get the chance to have a real v8 engined car sat on the drive. So why not give them the opportunity to build a fully working miniature version instead? This literally is a fully functioning scale model of an engine, with over 250 pieces including camshafts, pistons, valves, cambelts and all that other cool stuff - guaranteed to keep the car geeks and engineers amongst us occupied for hours. Aside from taking apart a real engine, this must be the best learning tool for younger petrolheads to understand how an engine works. Available on <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00EQ4JOBC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=6738&creativeASIN=B00EQ4JOBC&linkCode=as2&tag=306info-21" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Amazon from £32.66</a>.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">2. Auto Glym Perfect Bodywork & Wheels Car Cleaning Kit</span></b><br />
<br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Collection-Perfect-Bodywork-Wheels-Interiors/dp/B00EF46HJU/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=6738&linkCode=ur2&tag=306info-21" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihMzFJYqveHnjte0MN9-5neRxVSaOFKwzNk8AD8q6-Giem976bArVLjSta5Qi_HcI3B1l5XF1meaL7Kwk2NJnS4h4hxeA573JXkSuMSRGkVYsLgSYxgjqw_k-HhcJfud0U7_HBsjLu6qRo/s640/auto-glym-care-pack2.jpg" width="560" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
I would bet money every petrolhead already has at least one Auto Glym product in their garage because Auto Glym are a well respected brand within the professional car cleaning industry who offer great products at a reasonable price.<br />
<br />
This complete car cleaning kit contains 6 of their best products which compliment each other to get amazingly clean bodywork and wheels. This car cleaning kit is the perfect gift for any motoring enthusiast. Available to buy <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Collection-Perfect-Bodywork-Wheels-Interiors/dp/B00EF46HJU/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=6738&linkCode=ur2&tag=306info-21" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon from £26.71</a>.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">3. FUEL: The Worlds Smallest Phone Charger</span></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_7vcV7ifuvDYDG8i8G0F0J3ihJBZpJ6twkBUESp-YJd2vkgg3oohPJMp1gNXPW8HvISuG4hUVHYPKrhqs09AUqPqmMLmV4xQoW4wkuzAgqMUhBBaBqoIGT8qwAgnWrl3W2fixuTvWycGd/s1600/fuel+phone+charger.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_7vcV7ifuvDYDG8i8G0F0J3ihJBZpJ6twkBUESp-YJd2vkgg3oohPJMp1gNXPW8HvISuG4hUVHYPKrhqs09AUqPqmMLmV4xQoW4wkuzAgqMUhBBaBqoIGT8qwAgnWrl3W2fixuTvWycGd/s640/fuel+phone+charger.jpg" width="560" /></a></div>
This tiny little emergency phone charger carries just enough power to charge a phone for around 20 - 30 minutes. Designed in the shape of a fuel can, the nozzle is removed to reveal a male micro-USB connection which can plug straight into your phone's charging socket. Genius! Available <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IYOF4H8?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creativeASIN=B00IYOF4H8&linkCode=xm2&tag=306info-21" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon</a> from £22.68.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">4. Swarfega Orange Rapid Hand Cleaner</span></b><br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000TAN6OI?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creativeASIN=B000TAN6OI&linkCode=xm2&tag=306info-21" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh183j_Y9v0umPtcnjOZs4HX8mPcDg6kdk2xIQ4T7eXc67XK8n5sTNuRXtUFaKepemq2kD3iSEUqTGG_lmQ-I1eEMld_6VLiWdy0XMt_GiAMsnB01_GuIwZExubcBDUxpicUm_PkPR2CYbl/s640/swarfega2.jpg" width="560" /></a></div>
"Hand cleaner?!" I hear you say. Well this isn't just any old hand cleaner my fellow readers - it is the ultimate companion for working on cars or motorbikes. Swarfega is specially designed for removing oil, grease and all that other nasty grime which you've probably seen your car enthusiast friend struggling to scrub off with normal hand soap. As an extra bonus it has a lovely orange fragrance. Doing an oil change has never smelled so good. Available on <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000TAN6OI?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creativeASIN=B000TAN6OI&linkCode=xm2&tag=306info-21" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Amazon for just £6.75</a>.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">5. Spanner Bottle Opener</span></b><br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AC4TRH6?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creativeASIN=B00AC4TRH6&linkCode=xm2&tag=306info-21" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3lv_CH1wdUf73mAZET0yI1yCj6rEs0mlWtR_IBYXenG0i67Wuh8RRQlc-IxM32F7crGZdp8TArTzexr8HDXxmVGhFJD2C8FpqdCFH3B4vTHBztXGbo-VuXX5_jRcgjc6Qza7o3x7EpHkJ/s640/spanner-bottle-opener.jpg" width="560" /></a></div>
The humble bottle opener is a gift which never goes unused. This high quality, stainless steel bottle opener has a fully functional 14mm open ended spanner on the other end. Comes in a retro gift box with a lid. Perfect for car or bike enthusiast, mechanic or avid DIYer. Available on <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AC4TRH6?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creativeASIN=B00AC4TRH6&linkCode=xm2&tag=306info-21" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Amazon</a> for £16.39.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">6. Brunton Torpedo 2600 Portable Battery</span></b><br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00F084152?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creativeASIN=B00F084152&linkCode=xm2&tag=306info-21" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW3ksVHagpGNuaatxRHKnMsXuQErTSQeo430IkagaT4qBmtQ3aVWtKM7os_6rRU3GvgNO7t-3b0TjDa14b1LSACteoEk9MvbpT-wfQsqQvbH1ZVGTsWz-SzCKqyFzd-nQ2Vn0z0J69BDTx/s640/brunton-torpedo-battery-pack.jpg" width="560" /></a></div>
A life saver for anyone who's ever been caught out with a phone which has run out of charge. This little portable battery by Brunton is just 13cm long but carries enough power to fully re-charge most smartphones. It can also be used to charge MP3 players, cameras and anything else which charges via a USB cable. Keep this in your glove box and never run out of phone battery again. The best bit is it recharges by plugging straight into the 12v cigarette lighter socket of your car. Available on <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00F084152?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creativeASIN=B00F084152&linkCode=xm2&tag=306info-21" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Amazon</a> for £34.99.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">7. Artistic Car Print</span></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitq2WWpSdN41tI1Q579xn3K3MOLm2B7Q-5vCXDaT81rzGXtjNaGMc43LfQvBbfj6Pk7AM_su-zixoWaBj4x25IZmSgS0Ul5uSnFxmQISFT_CUZOla5ZRMccJjA_HTU0dNxA0d5P4QkPT6E/s1600/audi-quattro-group-b-rally-print.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitq2WWpSdN41tI1Q579xn3K3MOLm2B7Q-5vCXDaT81rzGXtjNaGMc43LfQvBbfj6Pk7AM_su-zixoWaBj4x25IZmSgS0Ul5uSnFxmQISFT_CUZOla5ZRMccJjA_HTU0dNxA0d5P4QkPT6E/s640/audi-quattro-group-b-rally-print.jpg" width="560" /></a></div>
A stylish print of their favourite car is a great gift for any petrolhead. and if they are lucky they might even be able to display it in the house. If not, it will surely find a special spot in the garage where they can admire it whilst working on their car. The above example is the famous <a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span id="goog_125385471"></span>Group B Audi Quattro rally car<span id="goog_125385472"></span></a>, and there's hundreds more on <a href="http://www.notonthehighstreet.com/search?filter%5Bcategory_id%5D=16846&filter%5Bdelivery_zone%5D=1&page=1&term=car+print" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Not On The High Street</a>.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">8. Complete Guide To Garages Book</span></b><br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/158923457X?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creativeASIN=158923457X&linkCode=xm2&tag=306info-21" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtWDua9JaYd9Y3pb4gLZxndgZCzDYzrRQLZNvLCQr_5jQtszHEG7jA_CAzCLEAFHEJERe6lP0TLPPBuD4Km3bPmA_lySLMTQuTSeAEWD63qWrCpLAJA2_pUlk42P9JOItR50DPX6vM-Lwi/s400/black+and+decker+garages.jpg" width="302" /></a></div>
"Ideas and inspirations for creating the perfect garage" - Sounds like every petrolheads dream come true. The garage is the petrol heads natural environment, so why not buy this guide to help them make the best garage imaginable! Maybe more of a fantasy for most but everyone likes to play the "if only" game. Also available on Kindle. Available on <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/158923457X?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creativeASIN=158923457X&linkCode=xm2&tag=306info-21" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Amazon for £16.99</a> (paperback).<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">9. Retro Castrol Motor Oil Mug</span></b><br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00OP40DO0?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creativeASIN=B00OP40DO0&linkCode=xm2&tag=306info-21" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiZHxjVE1Hfq5nQJFaY5hEdHmpUAFmLGXypu7gehBPhilfBhn3lB68PicK56c2n0UvweiodQqMBx2-hAWNRjsEM7P4iboSpw3Tgv_2-ez1FxmdiAuJci2Wc-xyvlKKZP2ISD0n7FqqtB0W/s640/catrol+mug.jpg" width="560" /></a></div>
Castrol has some serious heritage, it was founded in 1899 and the brand is immediately recognised by petrol heads of all ages for it's long-standing association with all sorts of motorsport, from rallying to Formula 1 and everything in between. This retro style mug has the classic vintage Castrol Motor Oil logo on the side and is made from enamelled tin. Perfect for the home or drawing the envy of your colleagues for professional mechanics. Available <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00OP40DO0?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creativeASIN=B00OP40DO0&linkCode=xm2&tag=306info-21" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon</a> for £8.10, bargain!<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">10. Roadcraft: The Police Drivers Handbook</span></b><br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0117081876?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creativeASIN=0117081876&linkCode=xm2&tag=306info-21" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWv7eCd_CXcZHszE9nYM4xnG79rG27bmvAJJZSsriBOD0LfvLa5rFNa7rkFycdeDRbtCQrW-Twl6BgCtE7sHaoJ9lE1Mn5yqeSYmhKYWXrHxRk9sgsBImmDFkGApsjlXvQXrpsE0SdznZl/s320/roadcraft+drivers+handbook.jpg" width="220" /></a></div>
Roadcraft is the go-to book for motoring enthusiasts looking to improve their driving skills and safety. Focusing on many different factors including increase awareness, foresight, vehicle handling, and reading road conditions, this book contains a wealth of knowledge any petrol head would love to read about. Available on <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0117081876?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creativeASIN=0117081876&linkCode=xm2&tag=306info-21" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Amazon</a> for £11.89.<br />
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I hope you enjoyed this list of Christmas gift ideas for petrolheads, as I said at the start, i'm an out and out car enthusiast and if santa got me any of these gifts i'd be a happy man.<br />
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Disagree with me? Products out of stock on Amazon? Any comments welcome below.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-15064363262039199422015-09-01T21:08:00.000+01:002015-09-23T20:11:40.121+01:00Which is best: 205/45/17 vs 215/40/17 tyres?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR2btYeqlcAtMnMAKZ8AzDqI5qi29uL7xBdfKdzLZocXmhkZObVIn3p1OsuPQzRtgfL9-ANsD376CiNAT9XQalQpjJXXUOJE_g2VZyp_FBFNzgQ1DkwhyphenhyphenZdGbT5KwzVmok4JvGB1r5-td0/s1600/rear221-small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR2btYeqlcAtMnMAKZ8AzDqI5qi29uL7xBdfKdzLZocXmhkZObVIn3p1OsuPQzRtgfL9-ANsD376CiNAT9XQalQpjJXXUOJE_g2VZyp_FBFNzgQ1DkwhyphenhyphenZdGbT5KwzVmok4JvGB1r5-td0/s1600/rear221-small.jpg" /></a></div>
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Like many petrol heads, I understand how fundamental tyres are to how a car handles and changing tyres is something I like to think carefully about. When my Honda EP3 Civic unexpectedly failed it's MOT on two misshapen rear tyres I was faced with a tough decision - replace just the two rear tyres in the same size (215/40/17) or buy a complete set and swap back to the OE size of 205/45/17.<br />
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It was only after owning the Civic for several months and feeling a bit unhappy at how harsh the ride was, that I realised the previous owner had put wider, lower profile 215/40/17 tyres on. I imagine that on silky smooth roads or on a track this profile of tyre would be beneficial but on UK roads I found the ride too crashy and it felt like there was not enough compliance to deal with the bumps and imperfections in the road, with the result being less grip and an uncomfortable ride. I also felt the low profile tyres were contributing to tramlining.<br />
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Previously owning a Peugeot 306 GTI-6 (which I directly compared to the Type R in <a href="http://www.pugaddicts.co.uk/2015/03/honda-civic-type-r-ep3-vs-peugeot-306.html">this review</a>), I'm a big fan of what would now be considered van tyres. The 306 used to run 195/55/15 tyres and they were bloody brilliant, it would eat up a bumpy B road like nothing else and speed bumps could be taken at a decent speed without that horrible feeling that you are going to blow a damper.<br />
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<!--START MERCHANT:merchant name Demon Tweeks from affiliatewindow.com.-->
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With this in the back of my mind, I took the plunge and purchased a set of Bridgestone Potenza RE050A in 205/45/17 from <a href="http://www.blackcircles.com/" rel="nofollow">BlackCircles.com</a>. If you are wondering, the previous tyres were Falken FK 452, which have a pretty good reputation online.<br />
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The difference was night and day - the higher profile tyres gave much more compliance and increased ride comfort considerably. Confidence and grip were also vastly improved, although some of this would have undoubtedly been due to the new tyres. Road noise was also reduced but I don't know if this is due to the tyre profile change or different model of tyre.<br />
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In my opinion, the ride on the Honda Type R is stiff enough without having to drop to a lower profile to get increased control and I would strongly recommend sticking with the tyre size that Honda intended when they designed the car.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-72467242334912457612015-08-07T19:39:00.000+01:002015-08-07T19:39:32.635+01:00Black Circles Review - Buying Tyres Online<div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMZlkwDvploMBhHpgmIXjB45dU-kpsfC2He79Zw3wysRyLb1t01Q7l5IvQ6rm5yQb3gyGTnFzsx0HiJSGpEmezZS18pip2Oa7FLpXo_9ozimiJ3Gv3gYf99ULVKzTKFBKBRCTl-NdXbQH5/s1600/2015-07-27-17.42.00.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMZlkwDvploMBhHpgmIXjB45dU-kpsfC2He79Zw3wysRyLb1t01Q7l5IvQ6rm5yQb3gyGTnFzsx0HiJSGpEmezZS18pip2Oa7FLpXo_9ozimiJ3Gv3gYf99ULVKzTKFBKBRCTl-NdXbQH5/s640/2015-07-27-17.42.00.jpg" width="560" /></a></div>
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Black Circles is a website which lets you order tyres online to have them fitted at a local garage. They have a huge choice of tyres at a great price, so 9 times out of 10 it is cheaper to order from them and then just pay for fitting and balancing at a local garage/tyre fitters.<br />
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They also offer a fitting service where you select a local tyre dealer to fit the tyres at a time convenient to you, pay the full price online and then the tyres are delivered directly to the tyre fitters and you just turn up.</div>
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I was considering changing the tyres of my Honda Civic EP3 Type R back to the OEM size of 205/45/17 as the previous owner had opted for the cheaper 215/40/17 size. With the current state of the UK roads I wanted a bit more comfort and also felt the extra compliance would improve grip.</div>
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A couple of weeks ago, my car failed it's MOT because of the two rear tyre inside edges being worn (camber bolts and FRSU). I decided it was time to take the plunge and buy a set of four tyres in the OEM size.</div>
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You cannot underestimate the difference a good set of tyres will make to to how a car handles, and like many petrolheads, I am extremely picky about which tyres I was going to fit. Especially if I was buying a whole set of four.</div>
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So I headed over to BlackCircles to see what was available in that size...the answer was a lot so I spent a while reading tyre reviews on the cleverly named <a href="http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/">TyreReviews.co.uk</a> to find the best tyre possible for my budget.<br />
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Currently <a href="http://www.topcashback.co.uk/ref/consciousobservation" rel="nofollow">TopCashback</a> will give you 2.1% cashback just for visiting Black Circles via one of their referral links. Not a huge saving but better than nothing.<br />
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The Bridgestone Potenza RE050A looked fantastic so I ordered four of them at 1.30pm on Thursday, a confirmation email quickly came through with an estimated delivery day of the following Tuesday.<br />
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Amazingly, three of the tyres were delivered on Friday. My MOT was running out the next week so I was worried the order had gone wrong, I got on the phone to BlackCircles and spoke to (a real person!) in customer services who was very helpful and after checking up on my order, explained that they were expecting the final tyre to arrive on that day and a few hours later it did.<br />
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I guess because they ship them as four separate parcels they are sometimes delivered on different days. Not normally a problem but in my case it caused a small concern.<br />
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All in all, my review of Black Circles is a positive one as they provided a great service at a fantastic price (the best I could find online). This is the 2nd time I have ordered from Black Circles and I would not hesitate to do so again. </div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-63431152391096748792015-06-05T22:32:00.001+01:002015-09-22T22:56:17.235+01:00Peugeot 306 Common Causes of Suspension Knocks and Creaks<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKFMRpwIoLR2pipxs7Iw-bNH3c8-9VNQZs9JWYo9NxVkDjDZ6ksoaBGtcnRFtmSlXk5NRWz0vrn28wtVPndEulPTrb2cAx00sAiwTEkjZqb_F_-NNGFcyHsW4R_SYBicHGDdSpexAbtFCA/s1600/IMG_0693.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Peugeot 306 HDI" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKFMRpwIoLR2pipxs7Iw-bNH3c8-9VNQZs9JWYo9NxVkDjDZ6ksoaBGtcnRFtmSlXk5NRWz0vrn28wtVPndEulPTrb2cAx00sAiwTEkjZqb_F_-NNGFcyHsW4R_SYBicHGDdSpexAbtFCA/s640/IMG_0693.jpg" title="Peugeot 306 HDI" width="560" /></a></div>
If your Peugeot 306 is making knocking noises then you should investigate immediately as knocking noises can indicate quite serious failure of suspension components which could result in a nasty accident.<br />
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Using our experience, we have put together a list of the most common causes of knocking and creaks so you can investigate yourself, or be more informed when you give the local garage a call. Most of these parts are available to order from <a href="http://www.awin1.com/cread.php?awinmid=3997&awinaffid=230611&clickref=common-knocks&p=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.eurocarparts.com%2F" rel="nofollow">Euro Car Parts</a> who do free UK delivery.<br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Knocks from front</span></h3>
<b>Engine mounts </b>
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<div>
The top engine mount (on the left as you look at the engine bay) is prone to wear and the chassis where the mount connects is sometimes cracked. Proper repair will likely require a new plate and retaining nut to be welded in. A crude way to test this is to try to rock the engine by hand. Also inspect the bottom and gearbox mounts. </div>
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<b>Front suspension arm (wishbone)</b></div>
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If improperly fitted, the sub frame mounting bolts can come loose over time. If you have long enough arms these can be checked without jacking the car up. If these bolts are tight then check the bushes. The most common bush to fail is the rear "P bush", this bush can severely crack which dramatically effects the tightness of handling at the front. Even if they only look moderately worn, changing these bushes will transform the car's handling.</div>
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<b>Front ball joints</b></div>
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A critical part of the Peugeot 306 suspension, these can sometimes cause a knocking sound if worn and should be investigated immediately.</div>
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<b>Front strut mount bolts</b></div>
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If the incorrect length bolts are fitted (too long) this can cause a knock when applying steering lock.</div>
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<b>Droplinks</b></div>
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Connecting the anti roll bar to damper, these commonly wear out, especially on cars with upgraded/lowered suspension. If you're going through the standard ones quickly, it's worth upgrading to rose jointed drop links (if you can find any!).</div>
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<b>Wheel bolts</b></div>
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Only takes 30 seconds to check and it could be a cheap solution.</div>
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<b>Front anti roll bar mounts</b></div>
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The mounts can become worn, especially on cars with lowered suspension.</div>
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Knocks from rear</span></h3>
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<b>Rear beam mounts</b></div>
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There's two front and two rear mounts connecting the rear beam to the body, Peugeot's fantastic passive rear steering relies on the rubber bushes allowing for some movement, over time these can become excessively perished and cause knocking when going over bumps or cornering.</div>
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<b>Rear exhaust box</b></div>
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Check this is not mounted too close to the body as this can cause knocks when travelling over bumpy ground.</div>
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<b>Lower damper mounting bushes</b></div>
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These will knock if excessively worn, also check bolts are tight.</div>
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<b>Spare wheel cage</b></div>
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Lift the carpet in the boot and check if the bolt is loose.</div>
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<b>Rear beam bearings</b></div>
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check for excessive negative camber in rear wheels.</div>
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Creaks</span></h3>
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<b>Front top mount bearings </b></div>
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The giveaway for this is a creak when applying steering lock when moving or stationary.</div>
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Do you have any other suggestions to add? Or have you checked all of the above and still getting annoying knocking noises on your Peugeot 306? Then please leave a comment below and we will get back to you.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-55911098049667484992015-05-30T22:31:00.003+01:002015-05-30T22:33:15.885+01:00Peugeot 306 GTi-6 Throttle Body Sensors Photo (XU10J4RS)The throttle body on the Peugeot 306 GTI-6 (XU10J4RS engine) is relatively easy to remove for cleaning or repair. These engines are quite old now and many of them will have a lot of grime build up around the butterfly valve which can lead to idle and throttle response issues. This labelled photo shows the important sensors/parts and is useful if you are thinking of removing it.<br />
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<b>Note: The paper gasket is very fragile and I advise you have a new one ready before removing the throttle body.</b><br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-64258810714481673612015-03-29T21:35:00.000+01:002015-03-29T21:35:20.152+01:00Honda Civic Type R (EP3) vs. Peugeot 306 GTi-6 Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuRkdrKgzvShXjCbMenccPbWrnmfV2jcxDZCu-8Or31R402Lj4moiafVCUEPuRiB3CyQyasQAbfZ4BoLKnzsY0QSciQQQ8cQVrYzCwsFXgUtjuu1mlpYsD37w5cgog0_2bT_x4H7ZYQYAB/s1600/peugeot-gti6-vs-honda-civic-ep3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="honda civic type r vs peugeot 306 gti 6" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuRkdrKgzvShXjCbMenccPbWrnmfV2jcxDZCu-8Or31R402Lj4moiafVCUEPuRiB3CyQyasQAbfZ4BoLKnzsY0QSciQQQ8cQVrYzCwsFXgUtjuu1mlpYsD37w5cgog0_2bT_x4H7ZYQYAB/s1600/peugeot-gti6-vs-honda-civic-ep3.jpg" title="honda civic type r vs peugeot 306 gti 6" /></a></div>
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Both the Honda Civic Type R (EP3) and Peugeot 306 GTi- 6 have been hailed by journalists as the dominant hot-hatch of their decade and there's no mistaking that both these cars still tick all the hot-hatch boxes - fantastic handling, a decent power-to-weight ratio, bags of character and of course practical enough to fulfil all the needs of a daily driver.<br />
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As someone who has owned both these cars and often wrestles with the question of which one is better, I thought I would write an in-depth head-to-head review to help me decide. Please leave your comments below, you don't need to register.<br />
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<table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="3" style="background-color: #FFFF; border-collapse: collapse; border: 1px solid #000000; color: black; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><br /></td>
<td><b>Peugeot GTi-6</b></td>
<td><b>Honda EP3 Type-R</b></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>BHP</b></td>
<td>167bhp @ 6500rpm</td>
<td>197bhp @ 7400rpm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Torque</b></td>
<td>145lb/ft @ 5500rpm</td>
<td>145lb/ft @ 5,900rpm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Weight</b></td>
<td>1214kg</td>
<td>1204kg</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>BHP/Tonne</b></td>
<td>137bhp/tonne</td>
<td>158bhp/tonne</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Top Speed</b></td>
<td>130mph</td>
<td>146mph</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Gearbox</b></td>
<td>Close ratio, 6 speed</td>
<td>Close ratio, 6 speed</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Engine</b></td>
<td>4 cylinder 1998cc (XU10J4RS)</td>
<td>4 cylinder 1998cc (K20A2)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>0 - 60mph</b></td>
<td>7.1 secs</td>
<td>6.4 secs</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>30-70mph</b></td>
<td>7.4 secs</td>
<td>6.5 secs</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Engine & Gearbox</b></span><br />
There's no mistaking the XU10J4RS is a classic engine which, when partnered with the close ratio 6 speed gearbox, covers ground at an astonishing rate. The torque curve is incredibly flat and after driving the GTi-6 for a couple of years the EP3 noticeably lacks torque and this does impact driveability. The book figures may both be 145lb/ft but if you can find rolling road graphs there's no mistaking the GTi-6 has the upper hand.<br />
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Now that I'm driving the EP3, there are often times in the morning commute when I reluctantly have to change down a gear and sigh as I know the GTi-6 would be powering through.<br />
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It is when you take a drive out of the city and onto the open road where the Honda Civic Type R comes into it's own. The increased power at the top of the rev range is noticeable and keeping the engine in VTEC is an absolute pleasure due to the rifle-bolt gear change which makes the Peugeot feel like the gear stick must be made out of wet cardboard.<br />
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I think this is where a distinction can be drawn between the two cars, whilst the 306 GTi-6 has a sweet engine with lots of grunt which is great for making effortless progress, it can feel a little asthmatic at the top end of the revs as you feel the torque tail off. Comparatively, the EP3 is a caffeine fuelled maniac who just wants to be driven to the maximum - lively is an understatement and it will head butt the rev limiter without the smallest sign of slowing down.<br />
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As it happens, even after owning the Civic Type R for 8 months I still find it quite hard to know when to change up a gear because there simply isn't that subtle torque drop which most engines have to let you know they are past peak power. This can result in accidental rev limiter action, guaranteed to get a frown from my partner.<br />
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The advantage of the GTi-6 is that it doesn't have to be driven to quite the same 1/10th as the Honda Type R to make good progress - you can get away with the odd short shift or lazily not changing down before a corner and it won't impair the driving experience much.<br />
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In comparison, the lively Honda is all or nothing, it demands you take it to the rev limiter on every occasion and if you don't - well don't expect to be in VTEC when you shift up, instead you are greeted by a frustrating delay whilst the engine winds up to the VTEC engagement point.<br />
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Despite how similar they may look on paper, these are very different engines to drive and both have their strengths and weaknesses. It's very hard to say which one is "better" as it's more a question of your preferred driving style.<br />
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Engine noise is also worth a mention as it's a large part of the driving experience for petrol heads. As standard the 306 GTi-6 has a lovely induction noise which is not hugely loud but very sweet and satisfying. This is easily washed out if an after market exhaust is fitted so watch out for this when buying. However, in my opinion, the Honda EP3 wins in this department as the K20A2 sings a more refined tune out of VTEC and sounds completely berserk on VTEC.<br />
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Indeed, there are fewer things sweeter to the ear than charging down the road in VTEC and the audible changeover as VTEC engages undoubtedly adds to the excitement (as does the shove of torque in your back).<br />
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Neither are fantastic cars for driving in heavy traffic. The rawness of the Civic can get a little tiresome, mainly due to the light flywheel (which was made even lighter in the facelift model) and lack of torque. Whilst the Peugeot drives smoother in that respect, the heavy clutch and steering are less than ideal. However, in my opinion this is less tiresome than the light flywheel which requires delicate driving to avoid being jerky. Peugeot wins here.<br />
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A sort of criticism of both cars is that they don't really get going until over 60mph which puts you at dangerous speeds and potentially in trouble with the law. Why is this? Well, for the GTi-6, both 1st and 2nd gear are long, which means it can feel a little sluggish off the line and at low speeds. For the Civic EP3 Type R, unless you are really in the mood and fancy some 2nd gear VTEC action, the real power in 3rd gear doesn't happen until about 60mph.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Handling</span></b><br />
As the staple foundation on which a good hot-hatch is built, handling deserves a decent sized section of this comparison for the Honda Civic EP3 Type R vs. Peugeot 306 GTi-6.<br />
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As with all the classic Peugeot's, the 306 GTi-6 received much praise for it's agile and responsive handling and after driving one for 3 years in all road conditions, there's two words I would use to describe what makes the little Peugeot so special - <b>steering</b> <b>feedback</b>. Whilst heavy at low speeds, the hydraulic power steering is perfectly weighted when you get going and you can feel <i>everything</i> the front wheels are doing. This inspires so much confidence that making progress on fast b-roads is effortless and it makes it possible to drive the car to it's limits and beyond whilst feeling in complete control.<br />
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If you get the opportunity to drive a GTi-6 which has been well looked after (new rear beam mounts, front wishbones, dampers etc) I'd strongly recommend it as you will not be disappointed.<br />
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For the record, my EP3 is lowered 30mm, has modifications to allow for front/rear camber adjustment and has had a full road set up alignment (FRSU) which is meant to improve steering feedback and handling considerably. There is no doubt the Honda Civic handles well - it feels very stable at high speed and turns in well. <b>However</b>, and the Honda fanboys are not going to like this, the steering feedback really let's this car down and it's never given me the same confidence when pushing on that the GTi-6 has.<br />
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The Civic has bags of grip, the steering is tight and when you do push too hard, it seems to progressively understeer in a non-alarming way. But if I'm driving at speed down a twisty road I want and <i>need</i> to feel in complete control, with the Type R, I have to put my faith in the tyres and suspension components. I think, and hope everything is ok, but I don't <i>know</i> it's ok like I did in the Peugeot.<br />
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Of course, I would have a different viewpoint in a track day scenario where you can explore the limits of grip in relative safety and a mishap simply means a wheel in the gravel or a missed apex. Maybe I have just matured since buying the EP3 but public roads are not as forgiving and I always felt this lessened my enjoyment of blasting down a good B-road.<br />
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Ride comfort is barely worth discussing as the Peugeot wins hands down. It's lovely 195/55/15 tyres absorb the pitted and pot-holed road surface in a way I can only dream of whilst dodging anything lumpier than a cat eye in the Type R.<br />
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N.B I really wish manufactures would stop putting ridiculous low-profile tyres on everything.<br />
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I was undecided before writing this section but I think now I've accepted the conclusion that for use on public roads the Peugeot GTi-6 handles better. This could be a controversial statement but...it just does and that's not an easy thing for me to admit considering I traded my GTi-6 for a Type R 8 months ago.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Interior</span></b><br />
This is one area where the Civic is the clear cut winner. The seating position is lower and there's plenty of leg room (even if you're 6' 4" like me) with all the controls easily accessible/visible. The steering wheel is smaller than the Peugeot and has a racier feel to it which is nice.<br />
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The half leather, half alcantara seats of the Peugeot are comfortable and supportive although when really pushing on I did feel like the seats would have greatly benefited from being deeper as you did tend to move around quite a lot, even with the grippy alcantara helping to hold you in place. In contrast, the EP3 seats are low and deep and really hold you in place.<br />
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Compared to the GTi-6, the Honda Civic feels much better built and I'm reminded of this with every interaction I make with the controls. From the indicator stalk to the gear stick and hazard warning switch - everything has a firmer, more positive feel. The Peugeot 306 interior doesn't look cheap - it just feels it.<br />
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As you would expect, the Honda has all the standard electric goodies but to be fair to the Peugeot 306 GTi-6, it has a great spec for a 17 year old hot hatch which is equal to the Honda:<br />
<ul>
<li>Electric central locking</li>
<li>Air con (even though 80% of them won't work now due to pipes corroding)</li>
<li>Heated and electric adjustable wing mirrors</li>
<li>Front electric windows</li>
</ul>
The back seats of both cars fold down to create a large boot space big enough to fit lots of luggage or a bike.<br />
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Overall I think the cabin design of both cars do exactly what a hot-hatch requires however the Type R does it substantially better. The biggest thing I miss from the Peugeot is the interior clock - why oh why did the designers at Honda omit this incredibly practical feature?<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Exterior</span></b><br />
A topic so subjective I almost didn't bother including it. The Type R has the <i>slight </i>advantage of being designed almost 10 years later so it's bound to look fresher than the Peugeot which unfortunately just misses out on having that classic boxy 80's styling (like the 205 and BMW E30 for example) but instead has that early / mid 90's look when everything started to get a bit soft and curvy.<br />
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To give credit to Peugeot, the 306 has aged extremely well (as long as it has the phase 3 facelift crystal headlights) and from most angles still looks pretty damn good and does not immediately stand out as a car released in 1997 (phase 2 model). This is especially apparent when you compare it to other hot hatches of the same era.<br />
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The big difference between the exterior of these two hot hatches is in what I am calling the 'loudness' factor. Amongst other things, the Type R has 17" low profile tyres, a red Honda badge and a large roof spoiler which is far from subtle. Like it or not, it is hard to argue the EP3 Type R does not have a 'boy racer' image and this normally provokes two responses depending on what kind of person you are 1) "Stuff what other people think, it's my car." or 2) "Hmm, I would prefer something a bit more 'under the radar'.<br />
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Comparatively, at a glance, the Peugeot GTi-6 looks like a completely unremarkable 90's hatchback to your average joe - the fact that only petrol heads recognise and appreciate the little Peugeot for what it is gives you a smugness in the knowledge that you could surprise all sorts of modern machinery on the motorway slip road dash.<br />
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I think ultimately they are both good looking cars and which one you prefer to drive on the road will depend on your personality just as much as taste.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Conclusion</span></b><br />
It's almost too close to call. For me the stand out differences could be boiled down to:<br />
<ul>
<li>The Civic is a nicer place to be in.</li>
<li>The Peugeot handles better.</li>
<li>The Civic looks better.</li>
<li>The Civic has a great reputation for reliability, the Peugeot...not so much.</li>
<li>Neither are very good at casual driving.</li>
<li>The Civic is more fun.</li>
</ul>
In my opinion, the difference comes down to how you are going to use the car - if it's 90% commuting and school runs and 10% trips down your favourite A-road then perhaps the Peugeot is the better buy?<br />
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Saying that, if I had to put my trust in one car to drive across the country and get me there without issue it would surely be the Civic.<br />
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At current market prices (March 2015) you could buy approximately four decent condition GTi-6's for the price of one decent Civic Type R (facelift). Is the Type R a better all-round package - perhaps. Is it four times better - of course not. But then it never works like that, does it?<br />
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Have you driven a Peugeot GTi-6? Or a Type R? Or even better - both? Leave your comments below and join in the discussion (there's no need to register).Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-64597035301488695192015-02-02T20:25:00.000+00:002015-03-08T19:33:00.979+00:00Guide: Toyota Yaris 1.4D4D Pedal Position Sensor Replacement (P1121 fault code)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkYbblRc6kHTPIaPTHStb0XzjmGrLlrYHr-OXavJo_HuguLmRBevbmLJgjP9J-3ckmf9zAIiBmk_8g7yuENZ4YkX4gRLEjzd1-XPdmJEDO8XlIeco6AMtn0hkelDnQPdyTSJIu4zk5jZD2/s1600/IMG_20150202_195636~2.jpg"><img alt="toyota yaris accelerator pedal position sensor p1121" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkYbblRc6kHTPIaPTHStb0XzjmGrLlrYHr-OXavJo_HuguLmRBevbmLJgjP9J-3ckmf9zAIiBmk_8g7yuENZ4YkX4gRLEjzd1-XPdmJEDO8XlIeco6AMtn0hkelDnQPdyTSJIu4zk5jZD2/s1600/IMG_20150202_195636~2.jpg" style="padding: 0;" title="toyota yaris accelerator pedal position sensor p1121" width="560" /></a></div>
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<h4>
Intro</h4>
Is your Toyota Yaris D4D intermittently losing all power and going into limp mode? Had a P1121 fault code read at a garage and not sure what to do next? Read on for more information.<br />
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<h4>
What is the accelerator pedal position sensor (APP) and what does it do?</h4>
The function of the accelerator pedal position sensor is to convert the physical movement of the accelerator pedal (e.g. light throttle, full throttle) to a voltage signal which the ECU can understand and act upon to change fuelling and other parameters to alter the acceleration of the vehicle.<br />
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If the ECU receives a signal from the APP sensor which is out of range then it will likely log a fault code (DTC) and put the engine into limp mode where the revs will not rise above approximately a fast idle.<br />
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<h4>
Symptoms</h4>
Our 2003 Toyota Yaris 1.4 D-4D would intermittently go into limp mode without any warning at all. For some reason it would most often happen when driving on the motorway which is potentially very dangerous as you can imagine. This would normally happen on average once every 3 - 6 months although sometimes it would happen two or three times in one week.<br />
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After the car would go into limp mode, you could turn the engine off and on again and carry on as normal, often without issue for months. Once getting home, I would read the code using a <a href="http://www.pugaddicts.co.uk/2013/02/launch-creader-6-obd-tool-review.html" target="_blank">Launch Creader 6</a> and it would always be P1121, I would clear this code and carry on driving as normal.<br />
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I contacted Toyota parts and was horrified to find the pedal position sensor is not sold individually and must be sold as a unit with the accelerator pedal...for £366GBPincVAT. This is absolutely outrageous for a simple potentiometer.<br />
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The P1121 code is <a href="http://engine-codes.com/p1121_toyota.html" target="_blank">defined here</a> as an issue with the accelerator pedal position sensor range/performance. It's important to note that this DOES NOT necessarily mean the sensor itself is faulty and after finding out the cost of a new one from Toyota I was not about to take a gamble so I contacted a local car diagnostics specialist to test the wiring and sensor.<br />
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Considering the intermittent nature of the fault, I was not surprised when the specialist could not find any issues with the sensor, however he tested the continuity of the wiring from the plug back to the ECU and found no issues so I could at least rule that out as a possible cause.<br />
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I decided to start looking on eBay for a second hand sensor as the chances of buying a second hand one with the exact same symptoms are pretty slim. To be honest these didn't come up very regularly so here are a few other places to try (I am not affiliated with any of these and cannot vouch for their service)<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.partsgateway.co.uk/">http://www.partsgateway.co.uk/</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/" target="_blank">http://www.ebay.co.uk/</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.partshark.co.uk/">http://www.partshark.co.uk/</a></li>
</ul>
The Toyota part number for the sensor itself is : 89281-52010198300-3030-01D28<br />
<ul>
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<h4>
How to fix</h4>
Replacing the accelerator pedal position sensor on the Toyota Yaris D4D is very simple and would take even a complete novice mechanic 15 minutes. The only tool required is a 7mm spanner, one of the bolts can be undone with a socket but the other is too close to the footwell and will likely foul unless you have a very shallow socket.<br />
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1) Unplug plug by squeezing the tab and pull.<br />
2) Undo two 7mm bolts and remove sensor.<br />
3) Fitting is the reverse of removal!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNRt3jEne5UIwHFrVeqfVwKb_sBuNpzMId5cm6OJDz7Tgnvrpm9hyphenhyphengGlt7uYKsIZwHmFF7npRBl_GZvt55enLEzT0HLA0XViP48N5QyI_NHQeebR1bikW1WKs6u7inD4wo2UOEGUuTxzl9/s1600/IMG_20150202_195648~2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="2003 toyota yaris accelerator pedal position sensor" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNRt3jEne5UIwHFrVeqfVwKb_sBuNpzMId5cm6OJDz7Tgnvrpm9hyphenhyphengGlt7uYKsIZwHmFF7npRBl_GZvt55enLEzT0HLA0XViP48N5QyI_NHQeebR1bikW1WKs6u7inD4wo2UOEGUuTxzl9/s1600/IMG_20150202_195648~2.jpg" title="2003 toyota yaris accelerator pedal position sensor" width="550" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pedal position sensor once removed from pedal</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI_2-a5mdec3u_S54GmmBJR9kfPF33Cf6sgo8_Fl-hAiiHHaK0uzJk8JZY94UdSFj-j5nlIWtoKj4Vrti53I9nLJIMfRabpuxbX9TMWHZ-ITY0sfknDuc8VOLlc-vXyn6vd9jdnACMkjXM/s1600/2015-02-02+19.56.59-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="2003 toyota yaris accelerator pedal position sensor" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI_2-a5mdec3u_S54GmmBJR9kfPF33Cf6sgo8_Fl-hAiiHHaK0uzJk8JZY94UdSFj-j5nlIWtoKj4Vrti53I9nLJIMfRabpuxbX9TMWHZ-ITY0sfknDuc8VOLlc-vXyn6vd9jdnACMkjXM/s1600/2015-02-02+19.56.59-1.jpg" title="2003 toyota yaris accelerator pedal position sensor" width="550" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0P2qfcW4Uagy8RaMy0reLdfeu93ZzaM0F5cdte_EiW_fZO_8G1O5eBdpr-i1JRipA2_M0KoobqiptNvBc0kthgXl81-NNQnRGUWtNurFSSsGKJjdcJYkbChjIb1T0qSPf2VFrdP5QBDe/s1600/toyota-yaris-pedal-sensor-close.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="sensor attached to the pedal" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0P2qfcW4Uagy8RaMy0reLdfeu93ZzaM0F5cdte_EiW_fZO_8G1O5eBdpr-i1JRipA2_M0KoobqiptNvBc0kthgXl81-NNQnRGUWtNurFSSsGKJjdcJYkbChjIb1T0qSPf2VFrdP5QBDe/s1600/toyota-yaris-pedal-sensor-close.jpg" title="sensor attached to the pedal" width="550" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<span style="text-align: center;">Start up the car to check everything is ok and you're good to go. Experiencing similar issues? Please leave your comment below.</span><br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-41949006384332862882014-08-23T15:34:00.001+01:002014-08-23T15:39:29.312+01:00How to use PP2000 with Windows 7To use PP2000 with Windows 7 you need to run it on Windows XP in a Virtual Machine.<br />
PP2000 is a dealer level diagnostic tool which gives you access to a huge range of functions including:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Read/clear fault codes</li>
<li>Measure live data such as speed, rpm, voltage, coolant temperature, vaccuum.</li>
<li>Key programming</li>
</ul>
<br />
I used a free version of Oracle VM VirtualBox, you also need the free extension pack called <strong style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, 'Bitstream Vera Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 12.727272033691406px;">VirtualBox 4.3.14 Oracle VM VirtualBox Extension Pack </strong><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, 'Bitstream Vera Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 12.727272033691406px;">which allows you connect to USB devices from within the Virtual Machine (this is required as PP2000 connects via USB).</span><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguDVQZ12cGs2fKMVAR3JYnu1E1aDWTZxGC-n9YwayAH4qmsgkLIuxq15OtXcopoRD12t0OJmCiCMttev-MwjOXC7bqHOZ9bnh549EfdXtzd3s4zOlRDBJX3MxKcvu2d1AJYkr41LUNkQSG/s1600/pp2000-windows-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="pp2000 running on windows 7" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguDVQZ12cGs2fKMVAR3JYnu1E1aDWTZxGC-n9YwayAH4qmsgkLIuxq15OtXcopoRD12t0OJmCiCMttev-MwjOXC7bqHOZ9bnh549EfdXtzd3s4zOlRDBJX3MxKcvu2d1AJYkr41LUNkQSG/s1600/pp2000-windows-7.jpg" height="211" title="pp2000 running on windows 7" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><u>Simple guide</u></b><br />
1. Download and install VirtualBox and extension pack.<br />
2. Install Windows XP onto your virtual machine via .ISO file.<br />
3. Install PP2000 drivers and software.<br />
4. Activate PP2000<br />
5. Open PP2000 software and connect hardware when prompted.<br />
<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/UvBn4N7JR7g?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />
Good luck! There's lots of bad downloads/guides out there, a bit of trial and error is required.<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-73439600498650517112014-08-16T18:33:00.002+01:002014-08-16T18:33:39.644+01:00Ultimate Peugeot 306 GTi-6/Rallye Buying Guide<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhksRZ-bBrZXlJIDo6xB1OptBCRIOHvw7CidN50sozfJzMUe3wHXwndbr7zTVSo5e1E-sUw3M62UQ_38Brw4hm5xKR2qZmAgSZrqhseS_CAbaVSRWW4w34gvv2naA9TjUOgpLakoP9Qih8W/s1600/sunlight1-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhksRZ-bBrZXlJIDo6xB1OptBCRIOHvw7CidN50sozfJzMUe3wHXwndbr7zTVSo5e1E-sUw3M62UQ_38Brw4hm5xKR2qZmAgSZrqhseS_CAbaVSRWW4w34gvv2naA9TjUOgpLakoP9Qih8W/s1600/sunlight1-1.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
<br />
I've put together a buying guide for the Peugeot 306 GTi-6/Rallye, much of this is also applicable to any Peugeot 306.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Engine/Gearbox</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li>The XU10J4RS engine doesn't sound great (especially when cold) and the injectors often tick. However, it is very important to listen out for a more metallic tapping noise which is caused by snapped cambelt which has not been properly repaired. Snapped cambelts on the GTi-6/Rallye is very common due to the service interval originally recommended by Peugeot being approximately double the length it should have been. If a cambelt has snapped, the head will need to be stripped down/valves replaced etc.</li>
<li>Considering the above, check the service history for when the cambelt was last changed - to be safe most owners like to do it every 30k miles or 3 years. The cost of this from a garage including waterpump/pulleys is approx £280.</li>
<li>Heavy clutch is normal</li>
<li>Whilst driving at about 3krpm, dip the clutch and check the idle stabilises and does not stall or bounce - this indicates a faulty idle control valve (easily fixed).</li>
<li>Usual checks for any white creamy substance in the radiator or under oil cap.</li>
<li>These engines should pull smoothly to just before the redline.</li>
<li>The chassis where the upper engine mount (on the left by the cambelt) secures is known to fatique and break. Small cracks may go unnoticed but they can fail completely and the engine will rock all over the place.</li>
<li>1st to 2nd gear will sometimes be notchy when cold.</li>
<li>Gearbox should not be noisy.</li>
<li>Check the vehicle still has the original airbox, aftermarket open cones will lose you power and if they are mounted low to the floor will risk hydrolock,</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Suspension</span></b></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>There's lots of potential for knocks and creaks on the Peugeot 306 - droplinks, arb bushes, worn wishbone bushes, worn rear beam mounts, worn top mount bearings. Take it for a test drive over some bumpy roads and use your ears.</li>
<li>Release the wheel when driving on a flat road and check the car tracks straight.</li>
<li>Check the camber of the rear wheels, rear beam bearings are known to wear causing large amounts of negative camber.</li>
<li>The rear ride height is set by two straight torsion bars not coil springs, these are almost always seized if changing ride height is required.</li>
<li>Steering is heavy as standard.</li>
</ul>
</div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Electrics</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li>Check everything - electrics is not a strong point on these cars</li>
<li>There's probably a 90% chance the air conditioning won't work. The pipes which run to the condenser rot away.</li>
<li>The cooling fans are also known to have issues. Low speed should come on at 97c and high speed 107c.</li>
<li>Check the airbag light comes on and goes off when the car is started. The connections under the front seats can cause issues which causes it to flash.</li>
<li>Electric window and central locking faults are likely to be caused by the loom between door and main body.</li>
<li>On GTi-6 and Rallye the oil temperature gauge acts as a oil level gauge when ignition is first turned on.</li>
<li>Autowipers can be erratic but this is mostly easily fixed by cleaning the contacts on the wiper motor.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
</ul>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Body</span></b></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>The doors are seemingly made of tin foil and will dent very easily, unfortunately most cars will have car park dings by now.</li>
<li>Rust is not generally an issue due to the galvanised shells. One place to check is the near side rear seatbelt top mount (if you can remove the c pillar trim) as there have been an alarming number of cases of this being completely rotted through on forums recently.</li>
<li>Front bumper and side skirts are likely to have stone chips</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Interior</span></b></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Bolsters on front seats can show signs of wear on higher mileage cars (100,000 upwards)</li>
<li>Front seats should slide forward to allow rear access and should remember their position</li>
<li>Fabric covering door cards is known to come away from trim.</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Security</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li>Check central locking works including deadlocks</li>
<li>Check blue Peugeot security card is present in service history</li>
<li>Check locking wheel tool is present (if locking wheel nuts are used)</li>
<li>Check ultrasonics alarm works by locking car with window open, waiting 1 minute and then waving hand inside.</li>
<li>Indicators should flash when alarm is armed.</li>
</ul>
</div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">General tips for buying a used car</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li>Check the engine is not warmed up, this could mask many problems.</li>
<li>Check the paint work for mismatched colours, this could indicate the vehicle has been in an accident.</li>
<li>Check the gaps between panels, if they are uneven chances are the panel has been replaced/repaired (badly).</li>
<li>Check all tyres for uneven wear e.g. on the inside or outside edges, this could indicate a suspension issue.</li>
<li>Lift the boot carpet to check for crash damage.</li>
<li>Never make a final decision in the dark or wet.</li>
<li>Buy on condition/service history not mileage.</li>
<li>Ensure the seller has the V5 present.</li>
<li>Check the dash vents work and blow hot</li>
<li>On the test drive, listen for knocks when driving and try and go to a car park and turn lock-to-lock, this will highlight many suspension issues.</li>
</ul>
<br /><ul>
</ul>
<div>
Hopefully that hasn't put you off, the Peugeot GTi-6/Rallye is a true classic of its time and the driving experience is unlike anything modern hot hatches can offer. The amount of feedback between road and car is pure driving enjoyment and extremely confidence inspiring.<br />
<br />
Anything to add to this buying guide? Please comment below.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-8913223433539779422014-08-03T12:18:00.000+01:002015-03-04T23:18:07.852+00:00306 GTI-6 TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) Testing With A MultimeterThe TPS on a Peugeot 306 GTi-6 is located under the throttle body and can be easily accessed by removing the air feed from the airbox. If it is faulty and you need to replace it you will need to remove the throttle body from the vehicle. It is highly advisable to purchase a throttle body gasket (Peugeot part number 1635 C3) before removing the throttle body.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_SMLcWUytkBA1iYxx3qIIsVPYLogb1Jbu6OMkiaFKFKwHT3CeBJaHGNR6zaHvIv10ho2I8nrwj_NtkwIwkGVPHU_KlRZ4MGQUFxr1hyphenhyphenbbbQAv6dFXcVIv42M1i6Roa4WFD8RulUItDQKm/s1600/throttlebody-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_SMLcWUytkBA1iYxx3qIIsVPYLogb1Jbu6OMkiaFKFKwHT3CeBJaHGNR6zaHvIv10ho2I8nrwj_NtkwIwkGVPHU_KlRZ4MGQUFxr1hyphenhyphenbbbQAv6dFXcVIv42M1i6Roa4WFD8RulUItDQKm/s1600/throttlebody-1.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Throttle Position Sensor on right side of throttle body in this photo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Symptoms of a faulty TPS</span></b><br />
Many of the symptoms of a faulty TPS are similar to issues with other sensors such as MAP (<a href="http://www.pugaddicts.co.uk/2014/02/map-sensor-testing-with-a-multimeter.html">click here</a> to read another one of our posts which specifically deals with diagnosing a faulty MAP sensor), Lambda or CTS. It is therefore vital to test the suspected faulty sensor rather than assuming it is the cause of issues based on symptoms or what internet forums say. These sensors aren't cheap and you don't want to be replacing them unnecessarily.<br />
<ul>
<li>Stalling</li>
<li>Hesitation</li>
<li>Jerky throttle response</li>
<li>Surging</li>
<li>Flat spots in acceleration</li>
<li>Poor MPG</li>
<li>Abnormal idle (<a href="http://www.pugaddicts.co.uk/2013/12/guide-peugeot-306-gti6-idle-control.html">click here</a> to read our post on cleaning and replacing the ICV (idle control valve) which is an extremely common problem.</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">How to test a TPS using a multimeter</span></b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>1. Supply voltage</b></div>
<div>
To check the supply voltage:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
1. Turn ignition off</div>
<div>
2. Remove multiplug</div>
<div>
3. Turn ignition on</div>
<div>
4. Set multimeter to volts and measure between terminals 1 and 2.</div>
<div>
5. Correct voltage is 5v.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>2. Operating voltage</b></div>
<div>
To check throttle position sensor is operating correctly:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
1. Turn ignition off</div>
<div>
2. Remove multiplug</div>
<div>
3. Connect terminals using wire harness</div>
<div>
4. Connect multimeter to wire harness and set to volts</div>
<div>
5. Measure voltage between terminals 1 and 3.</div>
<div>
6. Correct voltage for closed throttle is 0.2v, fully open is 5v. Slowly open the throttle and monitor voltage. Transition between closed and open voltage should be smooth with no flat spots or drops.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhJlavdflzQhoFjtz9WpTYRWt1hX8_6msbiyW9dGpTaONVotTj3Gwlxjz44OUwP6doFlPwOkZPZxFYbsKRD7aMhgN6YXjbVBnd_9SGidRaPSI1p_I1gfRMQ7UxRTKKLHW2jCAx43YcGMiZ/s1600/tps-wires-required.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhJlavdflzQhoFjtz9WpTYRWt1hX8_6msbiyW9dGpTaONVotTj3Gwlxjz44OUwP6doFlPwOkZPZxFYbsKRD7aMhgN6YXjbVBnd_9SGidRaPSI1p_I1gfRMQ7UxRTKKLHW2jCAx43YcGMiZ/s1600/tps-wires-required.jpg" height="400" width="376" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simple male and female connectors</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5nfEJhus_KHptj5ClfPwi01s5jtQXo78kJgGMsOS1x_KMJJqDmRkyXw5VHNYiRCwKFKn7FUip6qLF1gxgvIpjBQsLOoT_7Eitq-6Mk7oX5udsgoGKUlCAryzTwGCzQASY5bmtFSasC_ip/s1600/tps-wires-resized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5nfEJhus_KHptj5ClfPwi01s5jtQXo78kJgGMsOS1x_KMJJqDmRkyXw5VHNYiRCwKFKn7FUip6qLF1gxgvIpjBQsLOoT_7Eitq-6Mk7oX5udsgoGKUlCAryzTwGCzQASY5bmtFSasC_ip/s1600/tps-wires-resized.jpg" height="283" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In position with multiplug removed to access terminals</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Peugeot 306 Throttle Position Testing Video</span></b><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><br /></b></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/cQ_OuizXpgY" width="560"></iframe>
</div>
</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-84139816231986093552014-07-25T22:55:00.000+01:002014-07-25T22:55:15.354+01:00Peugeot 306 GTi-6 Oil Filters - 1109.T0, 1109.N2 or 1109.AL?A basic oil and filter change on the Peugeot 306 GTi-6 is dead easy for a home mechanic - as long as you can get hold of the right parts. You may have been on servicebox or browsing on eBay and have come across several of the listed Peugeot part numbers for the oil filter to fit XU10J4RS:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>1109.N2 - up to build code 07874</li>
<li>1109.T0 - build code 07875 and above </li>
<li>1109.AL - superseded part code for 1109.N2</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
<div>
In summary all of the above filters are suitable and are available to buy directly from the Peugeot dealer or eBay.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzah9PpfFuGLapx5faVYYLjHzwGlG7prVPBUIWM3DK5-fpYwcwmaquQsGb-c_7IZYmphE5t_xS-4zcV7UA5cTWGssj7lYx1k5gXSAeODkNXcDNv_pfcTrPIeDfdeJgrAG68pUcra4QStg-/s1600/filter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="peugeot 306 oil filter" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzah9PpfFuGLapx5faVYYLjHzwGlG7prVPBUIWM3DK5-fpYwcwmaquQsGb-c_7IZYmphE5t_xS-4zcV7UA5cTWGssj7lYx1k5gXSAeODkNXcDNv_pfcTrPIeDfdeJgrAG68pUcra4QStg-/s1600/filter.jpg" height="226" title="peugeot 306 oil filter" width="400" /></a></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5831246284549306448.post-3536633113252176182014-04-20T20:44:00.001+01:002014-04-20T20:44:35.855+01:00How to reduce understeer by adjusting spring rate and anti-roll bar stiffness"I just had a great time understeering around that track in the wet" - said no one ever.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_ZwSEF8DPjWw3YQiAAOqScdCMYHLEeeWYQs3ZirH3VuFuuuQ26vHiCehFXZZj9_SJgU9E7kKmAlyuvgqNtlFOnIkoyk6-miC1FIoLxsSfvkU-oBOx0OafylHJkItUf0hxdreQ2SD73ou4/s1600/ardent+oversteering+red.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="lotus elise drift" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_ZwSEF8DPjWw3YQiAAOqScdCMYHLEeeWYQs3ZirH3VuFuuuQ26vHiCehFXZZj9_SJgU9E7kKmAlyuvgqNtlFOnIkoyk6-miC1FIoLxsSfvkU-oBOx0OafylHJkItUf0hxdreQ2SD73ou4/s1600/ardent+oversteering+red.jpg" height="214" title="lotus elise oversteer" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This guy is loving life.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Although both understeer and oversteer are undesirable if your objective is to drive as quickly as possible, at least one of them can provide hours of fun and entertainment (hint: it's not understeer).<br />
<br />
In this article we will briefly discuss what understeer is and then cover some of the modifications which can be made to your car's suspension to reduce understeer.<br />
<br />
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">What is understeer?</span></h2>
Understeer occurs when the front wheels lose traction whilst cornering whilst the rear wheels still have traction, causing the car to take a wider route than intended around the corner. This is often experienced by every day motorists as heading towards a hedge on the outside of a corner you do not want to head towards.<br />
<br />
Most cases of understeer are caused by one or more of the following:<br />
<ul>
<li>Applying too much throttle too early in the corner</li>
<li>Braking whilst entering the corner</li>
<li>Simply taking the corner too fast</li>
<li>Road conditions reducing traction e.g. ice/oil/diesel/mud/water</li>
</ul>
<div>
Clearly by the laws of physics you can not eliminate the above causes through modifications to the car, however there are many suspension adjustments which can be made to alter the understeer/oversteer behaviours of a car during different stages of a corner: corner entry, mid corner and corner exit.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">How to reduce understeer</span></h2>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Reducing understeer by adjusting spring rate</span></h3>
<div>
<ul>
<li><b>Increase rear spring rate</b> - this will increase the rear roll resistance which will reduce understeer but increase oversteer.</li>
<li><b>Decrease front spring rate</b> - this will decrease the front roll resistance which will reduce understeer but increase oversteer.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Reducing understeer by adjusting the anti-roll bar (ARB)</span></h3>
</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li><b>Decrease front anti-roll bar stiffness</b> - decreasing roll resistance at the front which will reduce understeer but increase oversteer. However, too much body roll could reduce tire contact patch size, increasing understeer.</li>
<li><b>Increase rear anti-roll bar stiffness</b> - increasing roll resistance at the rear which will increase oversteer but reduce understeer. This may also reduce wheel camber change on cars with independent rear suspension, maintaining a larger contact patch whilst cornering and reducing oversteer.</li>
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As you can see, almost every change made to a vehicle's suspension will have more than one consequence so getting the balance right between understeer/oversteer/ride compliance/tyre wear/ and a million other variables requires expert knowledge and years of experience.</div>
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For the best results to suit your requirements, we would always recommend consulting a professional before putting your hand in your pocket to buy new parts.</div>
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