[Guide] Fitting Running/Side Marker Lights To Mazda MX5 NA

Mazda mx5 side marker lights

Fitting running/side marker lights to your Mazda MX5/Eunos Roadster is a subtle mod to make your car stand out a bit and increase visibility to other road users, it's also ridiculously easy to do yourself even if you have never worked on car electrics before.

US spec cars have orange running lights in the front and red running lights in the rear, however UK and JDM spec MX5's have reflectors instead.

Fortunately for us it's very easy to fit bulbs in these reflectors and wire up the side marker lights to be come on with the side lights.

Tools needed:
  • Cross head screwdriver
  • Wire strippers/cutters
  • Crimping tool
  • Drill
  • Large flat head screwdriver
  • Pliers

Parts needed:
  • 2 x 501 (W5W) bulb holders
  • 2 x Amber 501 bulbs
  • 4 x Cable Lock (Scotch Lock) Connectors
  • 4 x Butt connectors
  • 2 x cable ties
  • Electrical tape
  • 8amp wire

Step by step guide
Remove side reflectors and make hole in the rear to fit bulb holders. To remove them just undo the two phillips screws on either side and then gently pry out.

mazda mx5 side marker reflectors

The only difference between the UK and US side reflectors is that a hole was not made in the rear. So all we have to do is make that hole.

501 w5w bulb holder

Use something to measure the diameter of the bulb holders so you know how big to make the holes. The plastic is very soft so go slowly and no need to put much pressure on the drill, you don't want to fly through and damage the lens.

My bulb holders were about 13mm and I didn't have any drill bits that big, so I just went as big as I could and then gradually increased the size of the hole with various flat head screwdrivers. This worked very well as the plastic on the rear of the side marker is very soft.

You want a nice tight fit so the bulb holder doesn't fall out and water and dirt can't get in. You can secure the bulb holder with silicone or similar but I wanted to make it easy to change the bulbs so chose not to do this.

Remove sidelight/indicator unit and thread wire through to wheel arch

Mazda mx5 Miata side light wiring

Again just two phillips screws to remove the sidelight, both bulb holders twist to unlock.

Pop up your headlights and there's a few holes to feed the wires down into the wheel arch directly under the headlight. I routed the new wires under some of the original wiring to keep it tidy and stop it from flapping around.

Fit cable lock connectors to positive and ground from the side light

The good thing about the cable lock connectors (also known as scotch locks) is that you do not need to cut any wires to tap into the connection. Watch out that both wires are centred in the connector to ensure a good connection is made.

Connect bulb holder to new wiring

The 501 bulb holders that I bought came with approx 7cm of cable so this needed to be connected to the new cable I just installed. To do this I used bullet connectors from Halfords as a temporary measure however I am intending to solder and shrink wrap this connection as that is a more permanent solution.

Fit amber bulbs and refit reflectors

You want to check at this point that everything is still working as it should. Sometimes the scotch lock connectors can be a bit temperamental. So give everything a good wiggle and tug to make sure it's not going to lose a connection as soon as you go over a pothole.

Secure wire with cable ties

Your bumper should have this bracket in it which is ideal for securing the wires to stop them flapping around in the wind.

You're done

Like this guide? Spotted that i've done something really dumb? All comments welcome below.

Mazda MX5 MK1 [Tall People Mods] Remove Clutch Foot Rest Pedal

I wouldn't be the first one to praise the Mazda MX5 NA for being a great drivers car, nor would I be the first one to comment on it's lack of cabin space...

I'd actually wanted an MX5 for a while, but being 6ft 5in (195cm for you non-backwards readers) it was always debatable whether I would actually be able to fit in the thing.

Fortunately I took the plunge and although things were a little tight, with a few small mods I am very* comfortable and importantly can turn the wheel 180 degrees without hitting my knees.


This post is about removing the clutch foot rest pedal, which was one of the easiest, cheapest and most effective mods I made to get more leg room in my MX5.

The clutch rest pedal is pretty much exactly what it sounds like - it sits to the left of the clutch pedal and it's purpose is for you to rest your foot on when cruisin'.

Unfortunately for us tall drivers, it also takes up a load of valuable leg space.

Fortunately, it is only held in place by 2 x 10mm fixings.

Removing the clutch rest pedal will leave 2 threaded studs rising up from the floor which are a bit uncomfortable as you can feel them through your shoes. It's also nice to have a flat platform to brace against when cornering.

Two options:
  1. Grind them off
  2. Fix something over them

I went with option 2 as I want to be able to put the pedal back in when I sell the car. I had some bits of wood in the shed and thought that'll do...

The mounting studs are only about 15mm long which is why I had to sink the holes slightly so the nuts could get a bite on the thread.

Side shot shows just how huge the plastic dead pedal is compared with my delicately hand-crafted replacement.

Doesn't exactly look fantastic but this was just a test fit and I wasn't sure if I was going to keep the mod.

This summer I might paint it black and then stick some grip tape or similar on the front face to make it blend in more.

At first it feels a little strange as you have to lift your foot more to press the clutch rather than slide over to it, however after a couple of hours driving you will completely adapt to it.

More Mazda MX5 tall people mods coming soon...

Please let me know in the comments if you found this helpful and also any other recommended mods for tall drivers of MX5 Miatas.

VW MK5 Golf GTi TFSI Brake Booster Hose 1K0 612 041 GM Information

This is just a short post to help anyone else out and save them doing the research I had to.

The brake booster hose connects directly to the vacuum pump as part of the system to give power assisted braking. There is also a check valve which prevents boost from going into the vacuum pump.

Over time the hoses can become brittle and start to crack around the connections, the plastic check valve also becomes brittle and can be easily damaged when working on the car.

Failures of this part can result in several symptoms:

  • Loss of power braking assist
  • Check valve failing to close resulting in loss of boost pressure
  • Idle and vacuum issues

Side note: The short rubber hose between the check valve and the inlet is a popular place to take a boost tap from to operate a boost gauge or vacuum operated diverter valves such as the Forge Recirculating Valve (FMFSITVR ).

VW part numbers:
  • Original part number: 1K0 612 041 BM (shown below without extra vacuum nipple)
  • Superseded part number: 1K0 612 041 CH (also without extra vacuum nipple
1K0612041BM brake vacuum hose
1K0612041BM brake vacuum hose
  • Latest part number: 1K0 612 041 GM (as shown below with extra vacuum nipple)
If you car does not have a pipe for the vacuum nipple (e.g. AXX) then you can just block this off, the genuine part number for this is 056 129 777 which looks like a mini green traffic cone.
1K0 612 041 GM latest part number. Photo owned by ECSTuning.com

VW Mk5 Golf GTi (TFSI) Misfire When Engine Is Warm

This post summarised for anyone in a rush...

  • 2005 VW MK5 Golf GTI 2.0 (AXX engine)

  • Slight misfire on idle when engine is warm
  • No symptoms when engine is cold

  • New coil pack for cylinder 1

More information

I recently sold my 2005 Honda Civic Type R (EP3) and bought a 2005 VW Mk5 GTI in the hope of moving to something a little more torque-y and refined.

I was going through that first month or so of owning a new used car which I hate with a passion. You know, when you're constantly thinking:
  • Have I bought a lemon?
  • Was that a knock?
  • Is that sound normal?
  • Is the engine going to explode
Well anyway, during that enjoyable period I noticed that when the car was up to temperature it would slightly stumble occasionally on idle, most "non-car" people wouldn't have noticed it, but anyone into their motors would.

I did not experience any hesitation or loss of power, but after scaring myself with stories of compression loss and head gasket failure I decided the first sensible option would be to change the coil packs and spark plugs.

So I ordered the following parts:
  • Genuine VW coilpack - 07K 905 715 G (previous revision 07K905715F)
  • Bosch spark plug - 101 905 631 H (Bosch part number: FR5KPP332S)
Before I had a chance to fit these the misfire got much worse and finally conked out and wouldn't run at all.

Luckily I had an OBDII bluetooth adapter and Torque for Android which enabled me to read the OBDII fault codes to get a better idea of what was going on.

OBD Scan Result: 
  • P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
  • P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
  • P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
  • P0351 - Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit
Coil A = Cylinder 1 so at least that seemed consistent. However, still not conclusive that this is a coil or spark plug issue.

I changed the spark plugs first but this made no difference. The old plugs and coils were pretty filthy though with lots of corrosion build up pretty much everywhere where you don't want corrosion build up.
bad bosch spark plugs from golf mk5 gti

After changing the coil pack on cylinder 1 the engine fired straight up and the misfire disappeared.

Problem solved.