Mazda MX5 MK1 [Tall People Mods] Remove Clutch Rest Pedal

I wouldn't be the first one to praise the Mazda MX5 NA for being a great drivers car, nor would I be the first one to comment on it's lack of cabin space...

I'd actually wanted an MX5 for a while, but being 6ft 5in (195cm for you non-backwards readers) it was always debatable whether I would actually be able to fit in the thing.

Fortunately I took the plunge and although things were a little tight, with a few small mods I am very* comfortable and importantly can turn the wheel 180 degrees without hitting my knees.


This post is about removing the clutch rest pedal, which was one of the easiest, cheapest and most effective mods I made to get more leg room in my MX5.

The clutch rest pedal is pretty much exactly what it sounds like - it sits to the left of the clutch pedal and it's purpose is for you to rest your foot on when cruisin'.

Unfortunately for us tall drivers, it also takes up a load of valuable leg space.

Fortunately, it is only held in place by 2 x 10mm fixings.

Removing the clutch rest pedal will leave 2 threaded studs rising up from the floor which are a bit uncomfortable as you can feel them through your shoes. It's also nice to have a flat platform to brace against when cornering.

Two options:
  1. Grind them off
  2. Fix something over them

I went with option 2 as I want to be able to put the pedal back in when I sell the car. I had some bits of wood in the shed and thought that'll do...

The mounting studs are only about 15mm long which is why I had to sink the holes slightly so the nuts could get a bite on the thread.

Side shot shows just how huge the plastic dead pedal is compared with my delicately hand-crafted replacement.

Doesn't exactly look fantastic but this was just a test fit and I wasn't sure if I was going to keep the mod.

This summer I might paint it black and then stick some grip tape or similar on the front face to make it blend in more.

At first it feels a little strange as you have to lift your foot more to press the clutch rather than slide over to it, however after a couple of hours driving you will completely adapt to it.

More Mazda MX5 tall people mods coming soon...

Please let me know in the comments if you found this helpful and also any other recommended mods for tall drivers of MX5 Miatas.

VW MK5 Golf GTi TFSI Brake Booster Hose 1K0 612 041 GM Information

This is just a short post to help anyone else out and save them doing the research I had to.

The brake booster hose connects directly to the vacuum pump as part of the system to give power assisted braking. There is also a check valve which prevents boost from going into the vacuum pump.

Over time the hoses can become brittle and start to crack around the connections, the plastic check valve also becomes brittle and can be easily damaged when working on the car.

Failures of this part can result in several symptoms:

  • Loss of power braking assist
  • Check valve failing to close resulting in loss of boost pressure
  • Idle and vacuum issues

Side note: The short rubber hose between the check valve and the inlet is a popular place to take a boost tap from to operate a boost gauge or vacuum operated diverter valves such as the Forge Recirculating Valve (FMFSITVR ).

VW part numbers:
  • Original part number: 1K0 612 041 BM (shown below without extra vacuum nipple)
  • Superseded part number: 1K0 612 041 CH (also without extra vacuum nipple
1K0612041BM brake vacuum hose
1K0612041BM brake vacuum hose
  • Latest part number: 1K0 612 041 GM (as shown below with extra vacuum nipple)
If you car does not have a pipe for the vacuum nipple (e.g. AXX) then you can just block this off, the genuine part number for this is 056 129 777 which looks like a mini green traffic cone.
1K0 612 041 GM latest part number. Photo owned by

VW Mk5 Golf GTi (TFSI) Misfire When Engine Is Warm

This post summarised for anyone in a rush...

  • 2005 VW MK5 Golf GTI 2.0 (AXX engine)

  • Slight misfire on idle when engine is warm
  • No symptoms when engine is cold

  • New coil pack for cylinder 1

More information

I recently sold my 2005 Honda Civic Type R (EP3) and bought a 2005 VW Mk5 GTI in the hope of moving to something a little more torque-y and refined.

I was going through that first month or so of owning a new used car which I hate with a passion. You know, when you're constantly thinking:
  • Have I bought a lemon?
  • Was that a knock?
  • Is that sound normal?
  • Is the engine going to explode
Well anyway, during that enjoyable period I noticed that when the car was up to temperature it would slightly stumble occasionally on idle, most "non-car" people wouldn't have noticed it, but anyone into their motors would.

I did not experience any hesitation or loss of power, but after scaring myself with stories of compression loss and head gasket failure I decided the first sensible option would be to change the coil packs and spark plugs.

So I ordered the following parts:
  • Genuine VW coilpack - 07K 905 715 G (previous revision 07K905715F)
  • Bosch spark plug - 101 905 631 H (Bosch part number: FR5KPP332S)
Before I had a chance to fit these the misfire got much worse and finally conked out and wouldn't run at all.

Luckily I had an OBDII bluetooth adapter and Torque for Android which enabled me to read the OBDII fault codes to get a better idea of what was going on.

OBD Scan Result: 
  • P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
  • P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
  • P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
  • P0351 - Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit
Coil A = Cylinder 1 so at least that seemed consistent. However, still not conclusive that this is a coil or spark plug issue.

I changed the spark plugs first but this made no difference. The old plugs and coils were pretty filthy though with lots of corrosion build up pretty much everywhere where you don't want corrosion build up.
bad bosch spark plugs from golf mk5 gti

After changing the coil pack on cylinder 1 the engine fired straight up and the misfire disappeared.

Problem solved.

Cleaning Cloudy/Foggy Car Headlights With Bar Keepers Friend

before and after cloudy headightsCloudy car headlights not only look bad, but they are also dangerous for two reasons:
  1. Reduces the amount of light which makes it out of the headlights and onto the road, where you want it.
  2. It impairs the all important scattering of the beam, causing glare for other road users.
It is possible to fail an MOT for cloudy headlights as it ruins the light scattering. A local garage tried to charge us £60 just to clean our cloudy headlights so it's well worth looking at alternative methods and doing it yourself!

There are many ways of cleaning headlights which have gone foggy and using Bar Keepers Friend is just one of them which I have used with good success so I thought I would share.

Bar Keepers Friend vs. Brite Powder Power

To avoid confusion from my photos, Bar Keepers Friend recently re-branded to Brite Powder Power, so they are exactly the same product, just a different label.

Bar Keepers Friend is a more familiar brand which has been around for quite a while and has many uses around the home including cleaning kitchen pans, toilets and as covered in one of our previous posts, it is also excellent at cleaning car windscreens.

How to clean your headlights

Cleaning cloudy car headlights with Bar Keepers Friend (Brite Powder Power) is very quick and easy and in a few minutes you will have lovely clear headlight lenses again.

The advantage of using this method to restore headlights instead of wet sanding them is that Bar Keepers Friend does not scuff up the lenses so much that you need to polish them back clear again.

For really badly cloudy headlights it may not be enough but for the price of Bar Keepers Friend on Amazon (£3.10 with Free Delivery) it's certainly worth a go.


  • Polishing pad or cloth
  • Bucket of water
  • Bar Keepers Friend

Step-by-step guide

Step 1. Lightly wash the headlights and surrounding area with the polishing cloth and water
This is just to remove any grit which might be sitting on the headlights. Even though the plastic used in headlights is generally very hard-wearing, you don't want to risk accidentally creating scratches in the lenses or paintwork around the headlights when you rub in the Bar Keepers Friend.

Step 2. Pour a small amount of the Bar Keepers Friend onto the damp polishing pad and work into the headlight lens. The moisture from the polishing pad will turn the powder into an abrasive paste and you should be able to feel that it is rough against the headlight lens.

You should apply a good amount of pressure and polish in a circular motion being very careful to avoid touching the paintwork as this could mark your paint.

Depending on how badly fogged your headlights are this could take up to 15 minutes of constant polishing for each headlight and you will need to re-apply the powder to the polishing cloth every couple of minutes. Who said saving money would be easy?

Step 3. Once you are satisfied that the headlights have been restored then you need to gently wash all the powder residue from around the headlights and bodywork. This is easily done with some water and sponge.

Step 4. Stand back and admire you restored car headlights.

Tried this out and impressed (or unimpressed) with the results? Please leave your comments below.

restored car headlights